Found the leak....a hose that had already leaked and had been taped got banged around a bit when I was looking in there yesterday.

Man that jam nut is TIGHT. I have an old air compressor and wrench that I can barely get up to 90 PSI (which it says how much is needed to run that wrench), but it get's up there and it won't loosen it..... wrench is leaking air a bit at the connection. I don't know how much of a difference that will make.

 

Buy a quart of Dexron ATF fluid with stop leak, use that to top off the power steering system and the leak will stop after you add a couple of times.
Mine leaked too, did a fluid flush and then topped off with new fluid, then as it leaks I added the ATF with stop leak and it stopped after about a pint of new fluid was added.
To mcuh stop leak and you will clog the pump, no more than half a quart.

 

Okay... fixed the leak(s). Still haven't loosened the bolt. But I have a question about when I do---the manual says to "centralise the steering box" after disconnecting an arm, and then tighten the screw down. Some on this board have said that they have done it by turning the steering wheel as they tighten the screw. I am confused. Do you turn the wheel until you can tell the steering box is centralized because you can't tighten any more? Or does slack show up as you turn the wheel in different directions, thus requiring tightening at all points?

Thanks for your help.

 

You will end up doing it a few times until it feels right. If it is too tight, the wheel will not return to center after steering. If it is too loose, you will feel it. basically, with the wheel starting in the center, tighten, then check how it steers, then adjust as needed.

That is why you have to start with the steering straight. Make sure and inspect all of your ball joints (tie rod ends) while you are under there