I know some are going to say snip it off and go with the 4 pin, but I want a little more warning for those following me than 2 lights that do brake, tail, and turn. I picked up the 7 pin kit and am trying to figure out the extra three wires. Blue, Red, and Orange. The Red goes to the brake pin, the Blue goes to the Earth/ground, and the orange is for the rear fog light. Right now, with my trailer all wired up, hitting the brakes is illuminating the amber turn signals as if the truck was still wired up the US spec way.

So, I am thinking I need a different controller to figure out how to get the brakes seperate from the turn signals?

I got the brakes working by snipping the brake wire where it goes into the controller and bypassing it. As everything on my Truck aside from the headlights are LED, I doubt there is too much of a drain to ruin the wiring

 

You need one of these, the trailer connection is biult in it hangs down behind ( on my car) the right hand rear tail lamp, just remove the right tail lamp, reach in to find it, you then pull the end of the 7 pin wire up and plug in job done

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR011...CABEgJFVPD_BwE

 

That will work for the UK. The "7 pin" plug in the US is different. It can be done, but takes a lot a rewiring to include the US 7 way plug and an electronic brake controller.

 

This is what you need for a US 7 pin.
https://www.roverparts.com/electrica...ng-kits/9439C/
and one of these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wir...RT/C57186.html

If you want trailer brakes as well then get one of these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...a/TK90160.html

 

See my response to your other thread…

 

yea, I am not sure why there are two threads and I could not delete the other.

To make things less murky, I am running the regular European 7 pin connector on my Landy. As I did not currently have trailer that used it, I never noticed that the turn signals and brakes were integrated with the rear fog completely disconnected. Now that I wired up my small boat trailer (boat weighs 300 pounds) to run 7 pin, I discovered that the Amber turn signals worked perfectly on the trailer, but hitting the brakes also illuminated them. Going over the wiring had me stumped until I realized that the box behind the light was integrating the brakes and turn signals even though it was outputting to a 7 pin hookup.

I snipped the brake wire into the box and bypassed it directly to the 7 pin plug and everything worked perfectly. I think after it finally stops raining (thanks Ian!) I will completely remove the box and just run wires directly to the plug. Everything but the headlights are LED already, so there is next to no currant draw,

 

It’s a bummer you’ve already cut things up as using the Euro plug is a simple plug and play endeavor.

This kit shows all the relevant parts that make it plug and play: https://www.ebay.com/itm/29142501652...SABEgJaYvD_BwE

 

it should have been, but it wasn't. I forget where I bought my kit, it came complete with the plug, the wiring, and the box with the brains. But in looking at it, the box with the brains was the problem. It only had 4 wires out. Ground, left turn signal, right turn signal, and tail light. It did not have a seperate brake signal. As it was the harness had three wires completely out of the plug, rear fog, brake, and ground. It was basically wired the same as the american 4 pin, but with the Euro 7 pin plug on the end.

That kit you posted up is exactly like the one I have in my truck that I needed to cut up. you see the three wires hanging loose? Those are brake, rear fog, and ground wires. If you look closely at the brain box, it only has 4 wires out. It may work great with the 4 pin adaptor, but it will not work when wired up to a trailer with the brake lights separated from the turn signals.

 

OK, it’s starting to make sense. So then, first, it’s probably best to separate Euro 7 pin from ‘Merican 7 pin. The entire purpose of the ‘Merican one is for trailer brakes and I don’t think the Euros use it that way as I think Euro trailer brakes are primarily inertia activated with no brake controller (my wife’s German horse trailer being a great example).

That said, it makes sense now what you did. Personally, I would have forgone cutting up any of the harnesses and simply run a separate wire from the brake controller directly to a separate plug to activate the brakes in your trailer. That way you could run a flat 4 or the trailer brakes depending on what you are towing. If any harness were to be cut, it would be the adapter one from the Euro plug to the flat 4. You wire a ‘Merican 7 pin to the end of that for the connections to the flat 4 and then a separate plug for the brake controller on the vehicle side. And then to get back to a flat 4, you’d just use one of the ‘Merican adapters from 7 pin to flat 4. On the surface it doesn’t seem as clean and a bit convoluted, but may save you issues with electrical in the future as you’ve removed anything permanently tied to the vehicle from the equation and all the cornball switcharoo stuff is done via the harness. But I’m a nut about that stuff and am still convinced the Euros have not figured out how electricity works.

I did essentially that for the towed harness to the Jeep behind the RV- except it was on the towed side of the harness instead of the vehicle side as I suggested above: I added a wire to the harness for the ‘Merican 7 pin for juice (that would be to a brake controller in your application) on the RV side of the harness. Then on the Jeep side of the harness, I had 2 plugs: one that went to the lights side of things, and the other that went to the battery of the Jeep to keep it topped up. The braking device in the Jeep (an RVi brake if anyone cares) ran off the battery of the Jeep. It is super clean and stupid easy. Ironically I have the Jeep set up for trailer brakes as well and joke that the Jeep could tow itself by plugging the trailer brake harness in the rear to the front plugs setup to work with the RV.