Yup thanks for posting all this, with luck when the parts arrive it will warm up and stop snowing for a week or so, and I can get this done

 

Just wondering if would be easier and just better off to do an entire engine refresh. Yank the engine and do all the rings, bearings, gaskets, seals, a new higher lift cam etc... just seem like a lot of work to to do the HG, and in my case need one now at 176k miles , to only possibly have another issue 10K more miles like a spun bearing/rod knock or Timing Chain etc... what do you guys think?

 

If you have the money, tools, and place to do it; why not?
The whole job is really simple in terms of engine rebuilds and getting it in and out.

 

I have to get with my Mobile Mechanic guy, he is willing to work on it with me. It just seems to make sense to do this one time... well I hope one time anyway...
Is there a complete rebuild kit that maybe you or others have bought? I have seen a few build lists already. is there a preferred vendor that has all the right stuff and reasonably priced?

 

No complete kit that I know of.
I got most of what I needed here, from Lucky8, they are great to deal with, and their prices are way cheaper than the competition(for the same brand and part).
With a few exceptions, like the Crower cam(Kent makes one also). I bought that from Summit.
I got the Bosch reman injectors on ebay.

 

Hey Thanks I will check those guys out. I appreciate all you guys sharing these threads. It has been an education. I'm just afraid to do all this and then the block cracks like happened to you i guess? Don't want that to happen... so I was even thinking put an LS swap maybe? I dont have any clue on what $ it would take to do that.

 

An LS swap is not a direct bolt in, it's alot of work with Ace's kit(which seems to be really good too).
If you want a shop to do it, Trailhead in Ohio is your only option at $10k+
If your LR engine hasn't been overheated, or isn't an 03/04, the odds are better that the block is ok.
A Range Rover P38 4.6(same engine, better QC), or a 4.0 block(4.6 crank/rods fit it) are your best options for used engines to run or rebuild.
And, Lucky8 is awesome.

 

yeah i have and 04 4.6 just my luck... but is in really great shape overall. Not sure i want to spend 10K that is for sure. But you say the 4.0 older blocks are better, sturdier? if could find one, could I use my old rods an crank to keep bore and stoke volume of a 4.6?
I've got a lot more research to do...

 

Yes, I have a cracked 04 4.6, and am rebuilding it in a 2000 4.0 block.
The 03-04 4.6 blocks have the worst reputation for cracking, as they were the last 2 years of that engine.
Supposedly the molds had not been maintained, which resulted in some blocks being cast off centered, meaning one side of a water jacket was thick, and the other side was thin...and prone to crack.
If your 4.6 has no current issues, and has not been overheated, it may never have any problems, never know.
The 4.0 blocks have a good reputation, as well as the P38 4.6, which was considered A quality at the factory, and only went into Range Rovers. B and C quality ratings went into D2's. The last year for a P38 4.6 was 2002.
As for the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks, yes, they are exactly the same.
The extra .6 liters comes from the stroke, and the crank and rods are the only difference(I think the 4.0 piston's top is slightly different in shape, and it is said that there is 2 tenths difference in compression ratio vs the 4.6, yet the 4.0 and 4.6 blocks are both stamped with 9.35 to 1 compression ratios. Regardless, they are otherwise the same, and both work in both blocks.)
There are rumors here of 4.0 vs 4.6 having a different casting ridge below the cylinder line, so liners can slip in one and not the other...and it's all bs.
Both blocks are the same.
Here are my 4.0 and 4.6 blocks side by side.

 

Thank you for this Info. they do look exactly the same... So i guess i should go on a hunt for 4.0 Block instead just to be on the safe side. Either way i would pin those damn sleeves