took cash for it's tranny. Project "I-have-no-clue-what-I-want, other-than-"different" has commenced.

 

changed front and rear differential gear fluid. Know setting here wondering why I cant fix a 02 sensor ground fault that was determined by a knowledgeable Mechanic to be no ground coming from the ecu. I re soldered pin 10 and a few others on the ECU still have fault code P0154. the Mechanic wasn't able to fix it either. Had cracks and brooking pieces on rear bumper cover. Took it off flip it over and used a solder iron to plastic weld a few pieces back on and to fix some cracks. Then applied epoxy.Then painted the front of bumper cover. Look brand new!!

 

Replaced post cat O2 sensors to get an idea of how the connectors come apart before tackling the difficult pre cat pair. Ordered the whole kit from AB on sale. Assumed all new ones were the same. First new one on drivers side was easiest - connector slides off metal mount then press with thumb and pull apart. Second one on passenger side my hands are too big to get up into that space so dropped the front driveline and all was well. Grabbed sensor #2 from the parts box put on the anti seize compound tightened it then tackled the connector. The connector was wrong. Went back to AB box looks like two are for post cat two are for pre cat. Found the other one for the post cat put it in no issues. I hope the front ones have the different connectors otherwise I have two useless sensors and will be calling AB. Does anyone know if the connectors are different? It appears to me the receptacles on the post cat are the plugs on the pre cat sensor wires (reversed). So I still need to tackle the pre cat sensors and wow that one on the drivers side has me feeling challenged. :-)

 

Yep. Normal. The connectors are inverse of each other. One set you have to remove from the metal bracket and one set can stay connected to it, if I recall correctly.

 

Today I bled my cooling system. My heater core doesn't sound like a bong or a hookah any more. While i was doing this, I broke the rigid plastic tube that connects the overflow tank to the flexible hose that goes to the radiator. Thankfully, it broke at one end, and I was able to get the broken bit out of the flex hose and there was enough slack in the hose for me to put it back together without having to replace the part I broke. After that, I tried to get my Ultra - Gauge working. No power to my diagnostic port. Found 3 blown fuses. Not sure which one was the problem, but I now have a working Ultra - Gauge, a working clock, AND working dome lights... the wife is happy about the lights. She didn't like putting our (almost)two year old into his car seat by flashlight... I'm happy I have a way to read and clear codes. No SES light currently, but it's throwing P1590, and P0154 and P0455 are pending.

 

New tires Goodyear Duratrac LT 265/75 16" "E" Sidewall and 2" Terrafirma lift.
9000 lb receiver winch set up to install in front or back.
I haven't got the spare tire mount modified yet, maybe next week.
Removed running boards and mud flaps.

 

Today I discovered that if you are straddling a deep wash/rut, and you slide sideways as you lose traction, the result is a not very fun "crunch, scrape," as you bend, fold, and tear your rear quarter panel getting hung up as your rear wheel drops into the rut.

 

 

You really want to replace all of that rigid line with 5/16" (I think) fuel pump hosing. It works so much better. I bought a length of the stuff back in the spring to fix one of the rigid hoses I broke.

So when I broke the other one a month ago, it was 10 minutes of work to pull out that rigid junk and replace it with the rest of my fuel pump hose.

 

I put on my bridgestone dueler ATs 265/65/18. I was amazed they don't rub so far.

Yesterday, I put a new water pump, fan clutch, fan, belt and tensioner assembly on it.