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What did you do with your DII today?

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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 10:07 PM
  #1381  
KernowDiscovery's Avatar
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From: Traverse City, MI
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Seeing as the weather was so nice today I pushed the limits and took my Rover out for a spin. I was quickly reminded who was boss when I got stuck in the mud and spun the tires a bit. The Rover behaved liked it should and pulled me out no problems. Nothing like phoolingaround in the mud and 'falling in love' with my Rover all over again...

It's a beast!
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 11:43 PM
  #1382  
Street Wolf's Avatar
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From: New Braunfels, Texas
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Originally Posted by Dane!
I have the BP Utah one, I love it so far, its brand new though. It has spicer 1310's and a GREASABLE CENTER BALL!
Originally Posted by Madlands
I have one too. Mine got a vibration around 4k miles and I sent it back and they said I had a completely dry u-joint and that they'd replace it this time. 4K MILES! I got it back and now have a different vibration. Took it off and on twice and the vibration followed.

They said that it must be something with my rover because their builder made sure to check it closely, but I could ship it back and have them check it again. It cost me almost $30 to ship each time, that adds up on a college kid. Still can't decide what to do about it.
So does the Tom Wood's shafts. Hasn't stopped it from failing however.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 11:50 PM
  #1383  
SuperSport's Avatar
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From: Placerville, CA USA
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Originally Posted by Street Wolf
So does the Tom Wood's shafts. Hasn't stopped it from failing however.
All this talk of failing Drive Shafts makes me go back to my original thought about them. When mine is changed out, it'll likely be changed with an OEM shaft. I've currently got 130k ish miles on it, and I've NEVER pulled it out to grease it. I don't see pulling and greasing it every time I do an oil change, just to get the same or even less miles out of it. I don't wheel hard enough to twist it off, so that's a non issue.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 12:03 AM
  #1384  
jwigum's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2012
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Originally Posted by SuperSport
All this talk of failing Drive Shafts makes me go back to my original thought about them. When mine is changed out, it'll likely be changed with an OEM shaft. I've currently got 130k ish miles on it, and I've NEVER pulled it out to grease it. I don't see pulling and greasing it every time I do an oil change, just to get the same or even less miles out of it. I don't wheel hard enough to twist it off, so that's a non issue.
I've been thinking the same thing... These OEM shafts seem to be good for 70K or more miles. I doubt I'll even have the vehicle that long. If I do, I'll just buy another.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 12:22 AM
  #1385  
Dane!'s Avatar
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From: Las Vegas Nevada
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If tom woods has a grease-able center ball then I would say the only benefit to having the BP Utah one is its cheaper. Can you even buy a non grease-able OEM shaft anymore, I've only seen the grease-able ones for sale. I wonder why they are failing so prematurely, I can understand a dry u-joint failing though. I just had mine fail and it took out either a diff or my output bearing. I've put over $1,000 in repairs this year already, I love the thing to much to dump it and want to make it a nice trail rig eventually.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:07 AM
  #1386  
Madlands's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Arkansas
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Originally Posted by Dane!
If tom woods has a grease-able center ball then I would say the only benefit to having the BP Utah one is its cheaper. Can you even buy a non grease-able OEM shaft anymore, I've only seen the grease-able ones for sale. I wonder why they are failing so prematurely, I can understand a dry u-joint failing though. I just had mine fail and it took out either a diff or my output bearing. I've put over $1,000 in repairs this year already, I love the thing to much to dump it and want to make it a nice trail rig eventually.
I've seen oem ones for sale but they are crazy expensive. And I understand that a dry ujoint will cause failure, but they come pregreased and I greased mine again about 1k miles after I installed it. I can't seem to grasp how it became dry in that amount of time. Maybe some heat shields are needed?
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #1387  
taylor15's Avatar
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From: Gainesville, GA
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Cleaned her up after the rain and fog last week.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:43 AM
  #1388  
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Put 5 Qts of Valvoline Max Life synthetic ATF in. Seems to be shifting more smoothly even though the fluid was replaced 18 months ago (with what, I don't know...it was a British car specialist though).
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 08:57 AM
  #1389  
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Joined: Dec 2013
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Finished my wiper conversion to D1 arms by changing out the back wiper arm. Should have been an easy job. But...of course...we have discos...

Pulled off the back cover. First two lug nuts come right off. Third one was not moving. Seems that the bottom lug nut is stuck on there. Ended up having to remove the entire spare mount.

Will deal with getting the spare off today (probably going to have to dremel off the bottom screw).

On the bright side, got the new arm on!
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #1390  
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I'm going to try replacing the spring on the front wiper arms just to see if that will fix it. There's a few options for cheap wiper blades (cut-to-fit inserts or converting the mounting system for a more universal style), but that doesn't fix the lack of pressure to the windshield. Going to raid the drum break rebuild kits to see if I can find a good candidate.
 
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