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Started off at about 7am and mounted four 6.5 in 36w 6000lm led lights on the safari rack and a 13.5in 72w 14500lm bar on bumper. Wired bar, will tackle rack lights in next couple days. Then moved to the wheels. Changed all 4 rotors and new ceramic pads.
Black out hood, new shocks and rack light wiring to follow this week.
Busy day, but done by 3:30.
None of my son's windows would roll up or down. Pulled the drivers side and replaced the motor and saw the roller had split. Made sure it rolled up and told him not to roll it down until my shape ways 3d replacement rollers come in. Went to drivers side rear door, and lo and behold the window was held up by a long nose vise grip and no regulator what so ever. Next was the passenger side front window, motor was bad and replaced the motor and good to go. started getting dark so put off passenger rear till next week when he picks up a regulator for other rear door.
Welded up different mounts with smaller clamps and moved my hi lift off the too and onto my push bar. Not sure how well I like the look yet, been getting mixed reviews. At least I don't have to worry about the jack rust staining my roof.
Welded up lowered rear shock mounts, but I'm not a huge fan of the design so no write up yet. I'll do a write up on the shock mounts when I move my axle back in the likely distant future.
Picked up both front and rear differentials with the drive shafts as well as a range rover alternator all for $60. Junk yard had an "all you can carry special " going on.
Picked up both front and rear differentials with the drive shafts as well as a range rover alternator all for $60. Junk yard had an "all you can carry special " going on.
Replaced my master cylinder.... Still trying to get their out of the system... Having to pump pump pump the brakes to stop her....thinking gravity would be on my side, tried the bleed on an incline, nose up...smh! Will retry on flat land tomorrow! Hey, I'm an amateur...
When replacing the master, crack the lines going into the ABS module, then the lines coming out, then the calipers. That prevents ad much air from getting into the abs module as possible.
When replacing the master, crack the lines going into the ABS module, then the lines coming out, then the calipers. That prevents ad much air from getting into the abs module as possible.
Yeh well, last mechanic said I didn't need front pads/calipers.. .LIES!! Calipers on one side were froze . Got pads but gotta order cals so hoping I can have braking power just til Wednesday....and found out too late about bench bleeding mc, so hopefully new mechanic will follow procedure u just posted. Thanks a bunch!!
Saturday Morning with Bertha
