What did you do with your DII today?
#3932
#3933
Big week for my Rover, finally set aside some time and money to get things sorted correctly. First up, new coil packs, Kingsbourne 8mm wires, Champion double plats, and new intake manifold gasket, fixed my chronic misfire issue! One bolt was missing from the intake manifold, so I replaced that as well.
Also swapped all four motor / transmission mounts, pain in the butt but I got them all done after work one evening, thanks to RAVE and a write up on the forums. 3 out of 4 were completely broken in two.
Finally, got my brand new 245/75/r16 BFG KO2s mounted. Fixed my wobble / steering wheel shake at 50 MPH and look way better than the hodgepodge street tires I had before. Other than fluids, I hope to be good on major work for a bit.
Also swapped all four motor / transmission mounts, pain in the butt but I got them all done after work one evening, thanks to RAVE and a write up on the forums. 3 out of 4 were completely broken in two.
Finally, got my brand new 245/75/r16 BFG KO2s mounted. Fixed my wobble / steering wheel shake at 50 MPH and look way better than the hodgepodge street tires I had before. Other than fluids, I hope to be good on major work for a bit.
#3937
Long story short...
I fixed the code PO705 today on my wife's 03.
Ever since I put the engine in, code PO705 has been present. Had flashing M & S green lights on dash and CEL on constantly, key wouldn't come out of ignition, and was in lock up, 3rd and reverse only available gearing. Been going the usual route, replaced battery terminals, nothing, checked battery and charging system, nothing, replaced WXYZ switch on trans, nothing, checked new and used switch with ohm meter, nothing different about the two.
So, removed the window switch panel inside to get at the trans harness...to check for broken wire. Lowandbehold...wire broken...or I should say "chewed" apart by a small creature, mouse.
Blue and purple wire next to white connector in picture below.
Better picture of the destruction.
Repaired wire, electrical taped area...and problem solved. I'd notice earlier that the boot on the main wiring harness going through the firewall was pulled out...just enough room for a mouse to make entry. And I'd thought I'd heard something in the dash when starting the vehicle for the first time, after motor install, but didn't give it much more thought.
Anyhow, the nightmare is finally over...been struggling with this for a week now. Smoked a celebratory cigar to help embrace the moment. Earlier in the day, I'd thought about using the bic lighter to light something else on fire...lol.
But...
All's well that ends well.
Brian.
Ever since I put the engine in, code PO705 has been present. Had flashing M & S green lights on dash and CEL on constantly, key wouldn't come out of ignition, and was in lock up, 3rd and reverse only available gearing. Been going the usual route, replaced battery terminals, nothing, checked battery and charging system, nothing, replaced WXYZ switch on trans, nothing, checked new and used switch with ohm meter, nothing different about the two.
So, removed the window switch panel inside to get at the trans harness...to check for broken wire. Lowandbehold...wire broken...or I should say "chewed" apart by a small creature, mouse.
Blue and purple wire next to white connector in picture below.
Better picture of the destruction.
Repaired wire, electrical taped area...and problem solved. I'd notice earlier that the boot on the main wiring harness going through the firewall was pulled out...just enough room for a mouse to make entry. And I'd thought I'd heard something in the dash when starting the vehicle for the first time, after motor install, but didn't give it much more thought.
Anyhow, the nightmare is finally over...been struggling with this for a week now. Smoked a celebratory cigar to help embrace the moment. Earlier in the day, I'd thought about using the bic lighter to light something else on fire...lol.
But...
All's well that ends well.
Brian.
#3939
Hey Brian - yeah those look great. Nice and short, too. Everything out there is like 8 feet long. Possibly a bit too heavy duty... I guess I'd need 4 (maybe 2 depending on box) per box to secure it.
I want to secure a cubby box w/ fridge on top. 4 corners, so 4 straps there
pelican case - just one strap each side
toolbox - one per side probably
Some more items TBD
What are you proposing?
I want to secure a cubby box w/ fridge on top. 4 corners, so 4 straps there
pelican case - just one strap each side
toolbox - one per side probably
Some more items TBD
What are you proposing?
#3940
New transparent white expansion tank with cap for under $50.00 including shipping on EBay 👍🏻
Hose was zip tied after photo...
Old expansion tank (original) with second cap. D2 currently has just under 62k.
Decided not to use the barb and connect to existing hose (intake to t-body) and route behind intake.
Plan B (after intake barb hose to oil separator broke. Ran new 5/16" fuel hose from top of intake barb directly to expansion tank.
New brass barb... added epoxy bead to joint of butted brass barb to intake manifold.
Throttle body bypass... hard way after breaking plastic barb on the intake manifold. Removed upper intake... cleaned debris from barb. Replaced expensive OEM barb with brass barb for 1/4 the cost. Installed 5/16" fuel hose from intake directly to new expansion tank.
Hose was zip tied after photo...
Old expansion tank (original) with second cap. D2 currently has just under 62k.
Decided not to use the barb and connect to existing hose (intake to t-body) and route behind intake.
Plan B (after intake barb hose to oil separator broke. Ran new 5/16" fuel hose from top of intake barb directly to expansion tank.
New brass barb... added epoxy bead to joint of butted brass barb to intake manifold.
Throttle body bypass... hard way after breaking plastic barb on the intake manifold. Removed upper intake... cleaned debris from barb. Replaced expensive OEM barb with brass barb for 1/4 the cost. Installed 5/16" fuel hose from intake directly to new expansion tank.