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Tried to sea foam the engine through the throttle body. I cut the tube down so it was 1/4" away from the plate as per the bottle and held the engine at about 15-1800 RPM. Not much happened which disappointed me.
A few hours later I decided to spray the throttle body it self with some cleaner and when I pulled the intake, all the sea foam dump out from the intake silencer. I guess I need to keep that little red hose longer and maybe use some more RPM.
When I do a seafoam treatment on a D2 I pull off the vacuum line going to the brake booster and let it suck it out of the bottle slowly. Then as soon as I've sucked enough into the engine I turn it off, re-attach the vacuum booster line, let it sit 10min, then fire it up.
My son and I changed the plugs and ignition wires in the truck this weekend. We started yesterday afternoon and finished the job this morning.
We didn’t have misfires or any other symptoms, but the plugs were nearing the 60,000 mile service interval and the wires were installed 10½ years and 72,000 miles ago.
As I’ve written here many times I’ve had great performance from the STI wires and the factory-spec Champion double-platinum 7070 spark plugs so I planned to go with both again this time. I stumbled onto a stupid-great deal on a set of STI wires from Rock Auto a few weeks ago. They were closeout-priced at $11 for the set, plus a few bucks for shipping. I bought the Champion 7070 plugs online from Advance Auto at a 25% discount with free shipping ($3.89 ea. net, plus sales tax).
I decided this time to remove the upper intake for better access to the coils. The last time I installed wires I did it with the upper intake in place. The biggest problem I encountered this time was that I could not get the EVAP pipe to release from the intake so instead of removing the upper intake entirely I had to just swing it out of the way toward the driver’s side. That made routing the wires to that side more difficult. I got them installed but the routing is not ideal.
The only other problem was that the #7 spark plug was extremely difficult to remove. Not only was it hard to loosen at the beginning, it was tough almost all the way out. The tighter spacing on the driver’s side meant I was working with only one and then two clicks on the ratchet with the cheater pipe on it. I was concerned I had cross-threaded the plug eight years ago when I installed it but happily the new plug screwed in place pretty easily.
The old plugs looked good color-wise, but the center electrodes had all deteriorated over time. Instead of the 0.040 gap they had when installed new the gaps ranged from just under 0.050 to over 0.055. The plugs removed from cylinders 7 and 8 had oil on the outside from the leaking valve covers but were otherwise okay.
The truck sounded very good and smooth when we started the engine. It will be interesting to see if we get any modest improvement in gas mileage given the spark plug gaps. (I’m not holding my breath.)
The best part of the job was having my 22-year old son helping me. His interest in learning about maintaining and repairing the truck has been fun to see develop since he took it to school last spring to be able to drive on the beach through the summer and fall.
Hay, corn and apples for the deer. Been super-duper cold here of late, so a rover rescue was in order. Side note...after the last two weeks...I'm going to totally embrace global warming...if it ever really happens...lol.
Went out with a couple of my buddies one had a HMMWV and the other had M1009. I didnt do to bad with my disco if you like videos enjoy!
https://youtu.be/MQvgqfqy_w4
https://youtu.be/FUjZ2LX32EY
https://youtu.be/Z8MH3tqR0-w
Got real cold this morning, down to 8*. Started the truck to let it warm up and noticed an ominous whine. Sure enough, got in the truck 15 minutes later and turned the wheel. I heard the awfullest whining out of the power steering pump. Steering started getting stiff before I finished watering our horses.
I drove to Houston, TX to spend New Years with my best friend. I took my 02 Kalahari and honestly this is the coldest it's been in a good while. On the way to his dad's house I didn't really notice the lack of heat as it was in the 50's during the day. Well when I went to leave at 2:30AM I got about 15min down the road and I just had stone cold heat. No cooling issues, so I already knew my heater core was probably clogged.
Today once I got up I went outside & cut off the OEM factory heater hoses. Hooked up a garden hose once I got it unfrozen and sure enough it was plugged up. With a nice big surge some white little deposits blew out. I let it run for 5min until the water coming out was 100% clear and then I flushed it the opposite way. Of coarse the OEM heater lines = never available locally so I went down and just purchased some 5/8 heater hose.
I did not re-install them with the famous LR twist and just went nipple to nipple. Heater core is not a one way unit so not only are the lines routed cleaner it's "supposed" to be easier to get air out of the system (never has been a problem for me).
I'm back to having a heater and it only cost me about 12.00 for the 4ft of 5/8 hose, and 4 SS Hose Clamps.
The Problem: (1) I can't count on anyone around me to be a pedal-man to help me bleed my breaks. (2) I can't seem to get a "one-man bleed tube" here in less than a week. (3) I don't like the idea of spending a ton of money on a pressure bleeder/vacuum pump/Hawkeye, etc... (4) I live in New England, and can't trust speed bleeders not to turn into little ***** of rust on my calipers.
My Solution: Basically, I just put an in-line speed bleeder onto a standard two-person tubing/bottle set-up.
In theory, this should let me run the tube from the caliper bleeder nipple to a bottle or bleeder bag like normal, but will let me pump the pedal myself, while the speed bleeder prevents old fluid or air getting sucked back into the line when I let off the pedal (just like the One-Man Bleeder Tube I'm too impatient to wait for).
The likely failure points: (1) The unattended tube popping off the bleeder nipple while I'm pumping away in the driver's seat. (2) The tube feeding the speed bleeder doesn't allow for sufficient flow-rate to handle the 25(ish) PSI. and well... see #1. (3) The fittings going from 3/16 to 1/4 fail under pressure, making a huge mess, or, well... see #1.
I'm not posting this to say this is a good idea or anything like that. I'd definitely recommend just getting the right tools for the job, but just thought I'd give everyone something to yell at me for haha.
I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow. Who knows, maybe it will work.
