@Dion... The common radiator body leak is on the top drivers side corner where the screws for the plastic cover go in, those not in the know put the long screw in the short hole.... Yes if your T-stat is OG its probably time to get the Britpart 180 or the Grey 180 from Lucky 8. As for the heat on the U-joints, just replace the U-joints with serviceable ones and call it good as long as you keep them greased every oil change.

 

Probably what the LR3 and later model guys think about the D2's!

 

Getting closer to running

 

Come on Man, cross the finish line already!

 

 

Hahaha...I'm building suspense.
New radiator came yesterday.
I should finish putting it back together over this weekend, and then maybe it'll run!

 

Not very many people use synthetic in these engines... Not to start the oil debate up again or anything...

 

Oh come on, its been at least a week since it has been debated.....

 

 

Hey Guys,

I was checking my D2 for minor transfer case leaking and I started to bang around the frame to knock some surface rust off.

Put my hand up next to the CAT and whoosh my hand crushed the side of the frame , the size of an apple.

I knew it was rusty but it seemed solid underneath.

Definitely not worth repairing the frame but I am torn what to do with the thing. Its cheapest to scrap it as I still pay insurance.

Anyone in the Toronto area want to buy it for $500 for spares? I have two transfer cases. Engine could use a little work but it runs, has power, I think it is serviceable. Everything works, AC, oil pressure gauge.

I'll take the stereo out though.

Has a brand new front driveshaft (still have the old one which could be updated). New Windshield. D1 CDL shifter (still have the D2 shifter).

If I had the space, I'd look for one with a good chassis and put them together. Hard in my driveway though with my daily driver and wifes car.

I can drive it "carefully" to your location.

You can see it (it now has 16 OEM wheels) on youtube.com/grammin4x4overland

Cheers