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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 03:36 PM
  #6331  
ArmyRover's Avatar
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From: Augusta, GA
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I ran RRS wheels on my D2.

Don't forget you need different lug nuts and hub centric rings to mount up properly
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 05:58 PM
  #6332  
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From: austin texas
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Originally Posted by vwauditech
..
Installed my steel bumper and winch tonight! Adding some lighting this weekend too.
Thats hot! It looks like the bar comes forward a little bit. I like it!

i did +4 braided lines and 2in lift spacers.


 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 06:01 PM
  #6333  
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From: austin texas
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
Swapped interior winch control harness, removed SAI pump and manifolds, relocated washer bottle, removed front sway bar, install front skid plate, wired up winch and mounted solenoid box in factory jack location, installed rear roof rail extensions and took some pictures.


That's enough for today.

Brian.
Did you address the check Engine light from the sai delete? If so, how? I really want to delete it but have to pass emissions
 
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 06:08 PM
  #6334  
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This is the 02 Westminster I've been tinkering with.

Fixed Items:

1. New water pump & gasket
2. FV308 PCV Installed
3. New water pump hose
4. New OEM T with SS Clamps
5. Removed TBH as it was seeping badly and ran 5/16 line from intake to reservoir
6. Installed good OEM Front Drive Shaft
7. Fixed PRND321 Linkage
8. Fixed center dash coin/ash tray bins
9. Installed D1 Cargo Door Handle Cover (could install backup camera into D1 lock cylinder hole)
10. Replaced instrument cluster PCB (someone pulled the LED's off for the ABS/TC/HDC)
11. Replaced Temp/Tachometer Gauge as the temp gauge was INOP & then SYNCED PCB to the BCU
12. Replaced various light bulbs that were INOP
13. Properly secured the OEM wooden skate board, replaced 2 window switches, and re-installed the cup holders
14. Installed new Group 65 battery and eliminated a funky ground cable
15. Finally got an actual 180F thermostat installed and it will idle all day long with the HVAC on at 204F tops
16. Cleaned IAC as it was completely stuck open, now it functions properly
17. Got 4Hi/N/4Lo linkage free and now it engages properly

Still not fixed:

1. E-Brake cable is trashed
2. Rear Cargo Door limit strap is INOP
3. Drivers window is INOP
4. NAV/Stereo has no power (however the CD Changer cycles)
5. Rear shocks are completely useless
6. HP22 will not move when placed in D (weird whirring noise from back of transmission/valve body), but if you cycle it thru 1,2,3 and then into D it shifts and drives fine
7. Diagnosed ABS & LF Wheel Sensor/Hub is INOP
8. Found rear cargo door wiper arm in the back storage bin, needs a replacement blade
9. PS Pump seeps, added some Lucas Stop Leak to it, and it works however on a cold morning the pump moans






 

Last edited by Best4x4; Jan 13, 2019 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2019 | 11:14 PM
  #6335  
Saturnine's Avatar
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From: Denver
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Front wheel bearing time

These seem to keep popping up in searches but i dunno

Amazon TRQ Wheel Hubs Amazon TRQ Wheel Hubs

But while searching on Amazon, I also found these for ~$30 less --
AUTOMOTO Wheel Hubs AUTOMOTO Wheel Hubs

Both have same PN of TAY100060?

Thoughts?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 02:22 AM
  #6336  
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If you're running over sized tires, which l believe you are...go with a better brand name hub. Moog, Timken, etc. Yeah, they may be made in China, l don't know, but most likely to a different standard.

I put a cheap $70 hub on the 01 a year ago...and noticed it was already bad as l was disassembling it the other day. A Moog bearing is about $200...but it may be worth it in the long run. Especially for the fronts, which are stressed more with turning, rears...probably could go with a cheaper brand.

​​​​​​​ Brian.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2019 | 08:38 AM
  #6337  
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From: Denver
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Yep, oversized for now but actually planning on going smaller when these KO2’s finally die

Inbetween jobs at the moment so it probably isn’t wise of me to spend $400+ vs $150
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 08:33 AM
  #6338  
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From: Charlotte
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Wrong forum dude. That's not a DII in the pic, plus most of your other posts are in the LR3 and LR4 forums.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2019 | 06:31 PM
  #6339  
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From: austin texas
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
If you're running over sized tires, which l believe you are...go with a better brand name hub. Moog, Timken, etc. Yeah, they may be made in China, l don't know, but most likely to a different standard.

I put a cheap $70 hub on the 01 a year ago...and noticed it was already bad as l was disassembling it the other day. A Moog bearing is about $200...but it may be worth it in the long run. Especially for the fronts, which are stressed more with turning, rears...probably could go with a cheaper brand.

Brian.
so the skinny on China manufacturing...(i used to buy parts from China by the thousands) ...they get an order for making a bearing for a car, they start producing them and inspect them. They usually have 3-5 crates for them; one crate don’t pass and supposed to get scrapped, second crate passes but isn’t very good (tolerances are out or at max spec etc) and usually get branded the cheap brands and have 6month to 1 yr warranty. The third crate is ok and gets branded a-1 cardone, Oreilly, Autozone etc and usually these get a 3 year warranty and finally some parts make it to the best crate and these get the longest warranties etc. These get the “gold” moniker from autozone or Moog etc. The Chinese manufacturers consider these to be their highest level European-like parts. (Think German bearing quality)

the factories price them accordingly so that’s why cheap brands get the crappiest product.
 

Last edited by The_OGCJR; Jan 15, 2019 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2019 | 08:40 AM
  #6340  
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From: Denver
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So you're telling me that if i go with any chinese part that has the longer warranty then things will be good?

 
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