4.6 is cracked
coolant seeping into 3 cylinders from between block and sleeves...right after I rebuilt it, and it previously passed coolant and pressure checks.
4.0 and 4.6 blocks are the same, the 4.6's extra displacement comes from the stroke, and the 4.0's don't commonly have liner problems like the 03/04 4.6's do(mine is an 04).
So, swap the good new 4.6 guts into a 4.0 block(or an 02 or previous P38 4.6 from a Range Rover, I just found a good 4.0 first).

 

Hey Sixpack, could you post a pic of the top of your 4.6? I recently watched a vid from RPI, showing machining marks at some of the lifter bores, indicating misalignment of the block casting, and ultimately, the reason for the cracks. Just wondering if your block has these marks? I have a 4.6 and am wondering; If there are no misalignment marks, is the block worthy of reusing? Or play it safe and use a 4.0 or P38-4.6 block..

 

Sure, but it will be tonight, after I'm home from work.
My 4.6 looked awful, had a tremendous amount of rough casting throughout the lifter valley.
I knocked alot of it out before rebuilding it.
The 4.0 I have looks alot better in terms of rough cast and extra material.

 

Here you go.
Is this what you were looking for, or do you want a picture of somewhere else?

 

Yes, just what I was wondering about but it looks like perfect alignment; no stray lifter-bore marks. But still a bad block eh? That blows my theory out of the water. Oh well. Thx for the pic Sixpak.

 

What theory is that?

 

See post #6965 above.

 

Found the source of a ticking noise, vacuum leak at the SAI nipple on the throttle body. little rubber boot was all loose, cinched it up with a small zip tie, noise gone, idles better.

Also aimed the headlights, much better night vision now. Amazing how far off they were, mostly to the high side, never did adjust them after the 2" lift. Now some light actually hits the road ahead of me at night. I was inspired to do this by a post from Best4x4 a while back when he mentioned that he aim the headlights every time he gets another Disco. I can see why now. Previously no light at all hit the road with the possible exception of going up a steep hill. I parked right next to a wall, marked the center of the beams, backed up 25 feet and adjusted the beams 2" down and the left beam a bit to the right.

 

On my D2, got my hands dirty and replaced the PCV, wires, and valve gaskets, along with a new set of Yokohama Geolanders. Ready for winter or the end of the world

 

Oh wow I totally didn’t think of this. I did a 2 inch lift and I have noticed the lights high. Didn’t occur to me about the lift. Thanks for the tip!