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@AjjayS Was great to see you out, and that you go up and through that ugly stretch of road without issue. I got pretty close to 17.5 mpg heading home freaking weird.
Nice pics Richard I don't think anyone got any of mine sadly. But yeah even I was impressed I got up that road. Almost made it out unscathed I put 1 big dent in the gutter rail and a bit of side under the alpine window
it's hard to tell with the mud but its there. But ill take that over mechanical damage.
Today I hit the trails with the socal land rover club for the first time. The trail was changed mid week from Cleghorn to Desert Front. At the end of the trail two of us desided to head back and hit Baldy Mesa to cap off the trip. I am still trying to figure out what the clunk is when articulating (w/ disconected front sway bar). At one point, I had a bad clunk and the brake, abs and tc lights came on. I thought I had maybe damaged a brake line, but all looked well at a glance. I reconnected the sway bar and the lights went away after a few minutes. Think I should leave it connected until I figure out what it is.
1991 D1 200Tdi.
Last MOT was in 2015 or something, it had almost some ~490.000km then on the dial.
Will need PLENTY of welding.
Is completely drivable, bigger technical know now is powersteering leak, so, a bit heavy turner.
Now to source all the knowledge about these andf acivate on the D1 side of this forum.
Around 120km trip to collect and same back, so a total 238km driven and 46,07 liters of fuel, so 19,36 liters per 100km ~12,15 US MPG on bendy smaller roads max speed 80km/h
Today was a quick little "why" day. I looked up the code for the error I got on the trail and it was rough road/abs. It went away and makes sense. The road was more "road?" than road. It happened slowing down on a rough section.
My articulation clunk may have been solved as well. You can see in the photo below that the sway bar linkage pin was comming into contact with and "popping" on a frame bolt. You can even see that marring on the pin and an ping mark on the frame. For now I moved the washer to the other side to shorten it enough that is should clear. But long term that pin needs to be shortened as some sway will cause it to make contact again. (or a different dissconnect set that works better for unlifted trucks.) I do not have a ramp to use to replicate but I was able to get it to flex enough that the pin pointed (literally) to the possible issue). Next run I will put some duct tape on there and see if it contacts.
Last edited by hasullivan; Jul 24, 2023 at 12:00 AM.
Got the in line thermostat in a customer's rig yesterday. Was my first time installing Extinct's kit, been cobbling my own together for years. Super simple.
Also was tracking down an issue with the drivers window not working. Tested the motor directly, replaced the switch - had concerns about the BCU for a moment, but finally traced it down to both window motors were broken inside the flex boot in the door jam. No other wires were broken. Wild.
Got the in line thermostat in a customer's rig yesterday. Was my first time installing Extinct's kit, been cobbling my own together for years. Super simple.
Also was tracking down an issue with the drivers window not working. Tested the motor directly, replaced the switch - had concerns about the BCU for a moment, but finally traced it down to both window motors were broken inside the flex boot in the door jam. No other wires were broken. Wild.
Did you go with the paper gaskets or re-useable silicon gasket? Planning to order mine soon and can't decide which is best
Did you go with the paper gaskets or re-useable silicon gasket? Planning to order mine soon and can't decide which is best
Absolutely go with the silicone gasket. I did a ton of research and lots of people had problems with the paper gaskets. Also, if you need to remove your t-stat on the road for some reason, you can do so with the silicone but not the paper.