cool.. thanks. they look great

 

The yellowing and loss of clarity on a headlight is due to hazing of the UV protective coating they apply over the lens. It's basically a clearcoat. The plastic lenses will yellow even faster once this coating is removed. The correct way to restore headlights is to sand the surface and then repaint them with a good clearcoat, preferably a 2 part urethane. I found this out when I went through this process recently. Your lights do like nice, but a protective coating will keep them that way longer.

 

I too removed the crazing from my headlamps.

And:
Fixed the broken roller on my driver's side power wind regulator

Removed the faded, pitted wheel arch trim (with help from a $10 heat gun from Harbor Frieght.) It should look great once I get all the leftover bits of trim tape off!

 

Hi

What did you use to bring up the lights like that? they look great as mine are suffering the same 'glazed' effect and need some polishing and buffing with something. I'm amazed at what you have achieved as I was going to buy new headlamps at extraordinary cost.

 

I actually used this, the 3M headlight restoration kit. Saw it setting on the shelf and had nothing better to do today. It requires a power drill, you begin with a 500 grit sand paper wheel, then an 800 grit, a buffer pad that's 3000 grit, then compound it out with the a buffer wheel.

I also recommend waxing/sealing and if possible even having them clear coated after you do this to protect them.

 

I used the same kit on my wife's Saturn. It took some getting used to. At first I used too high of a speed with the drill and was smearing/melting the dust from sanding and was going thru the discs pretty quick because of buildup. I used a lower speed and cleaned the sandpaper and headlight more frequently and the sandpaper lasted a lot longer.

I put some sealant on the lights to protect them. Another product to protect the lights is opti lens by Optimum. Its a headlight coating.

 

Hi Street Wolf,

Thanks for the info. After seeing your lights I'm real jealous so I've ordered 2 sets of 3M off of Eblag, one for the D2 and one for the wife's Smart Car which is suffering the 'glazed over' look. Many thanks for your help.

 

I finally dumped the OAT coolant and flushed the radiator and block really well. I replaced the lower hose assembly (upper hose assembly was not so old so I reused it) and installed the LR 180d thermostat. I also replaced the 2 heater hoses... they were a bitch to remove and were just about welded to the pipes coming out of the firewall. I replaced that hard pipe that runs on top of the radiator to the reservoir with some heater hose and rerouted it to run up the intake air hose and across the engine just behind the AC compressor and the alternator to the reservoir. I just filled the system with distilled water for now as I want to flush the system well and then dump it and go with Peak AF. My engine only has 30K or so and the radiator has about 22K so I am not replacing the radiator or doing a major flush. I witnessed no sludge or crystals or scale on the flush. I think all told it cost me around $160 for all the parts, fluids and shop supplies. I reused some of the stock hose clamps but installed screw type ones on fitting I may have to remove from time to time in the future. I also went ahead and put on a new serpentine belt, all the pullies seemed fine.

I am convinced the LR Disco cooling system was designed by some British plumbers out of work or something. I've never worked on a stranger mix of hoses and fittings in my life.

 

Good luck. It'll be worth it when you're finished.

 

Replaced my DII wiper arms and blades with DI's. I am must happier with the performance of the DI as opposed to the DII arms.