Its the cost of the Kit, + Motor really.
I used a Harness & Computer from PSI conversions which added another G to my bill, but don't think you HAVE to buy these...
Also used an Aluminum L33 which added another G

Random tools you may not have, sensors, broken things along the way...

I think the cost of this project is relative to your knowledge & available tools...I'd say 4-5K USD depending on how you do..

Once I'm finished I plan to put together a build thread detailing tools you might need, and expected costs...

 

Hey all, so I was driving the swapped disco back home this past weekend, accelerating fairly hard and the engine completely cut off on me.
All electronics stayed on, fuel gauge went to zero. I tested the fuel pump by attaching a pressure gauge to the fuel rail. Here's what I've currently discovered...

• I get no pressure when turning the engine over from the ignition
• Jumping the fuel pump relay gave me just under 50 psi
• M&S lights blinking on the dash (I did tinker with the crank position sensor on the front of the engine recently thinking that might be the source of the issue so M&S might be coming from that incorrect adjustment)

I'm fairly sure the issue is electronic (immobilizer?) in nature but does anyone know how I can confirm that the ECB (black box from ACE) is working?
Any thoughts on where to go from here?

 

Will it start with fuel relay jumped? Any tach signal then?

If no tach signal, then I think your issue could be a dead Rover crankshaft position sensor. I would get another and swap it. Even if the CPS is misaligned it usually is close enough to allow fuel pressure. If it sees no CPS signal at all it will cut the fuel pump power. M+S lights are from this as well.

On another note your fuel pressure is a little low. My fuel pressure is 53 PSI. Could be gauge differences I suppose.

ECB is likely fine. If that went bad, you would have different symptoms. You would still have fuel pressure and it would drive, but M+S lights and stuck in 3rd gear.

I can't speak on the immobilizer. I've never had any issues with it.

 

I've had a few issues with the immobilizer. I think however it's the 4-way emergency flashers that come on when the immobilizer is triggered, are your 4ways blinking? You didn't mention it so likely not. Any CEL from the rover engine side?

 

Side note, I now have a second confirmed working ECU programmed and ready to run, plug n play if anyone is interested as I know sourcing and programming them can be annoying to get done. PM me if you're interested anyone. It was $75 + 220 for programming but I did run it for a few days to confirm it works fine.

-Greg

 

Does anyone know if the factory LS starter will work with the swap flywheel or do I need to buy the one that ACE recommends (AC Delco 337-1119)? I hate to buy a starter if I don't need to. Thanks.

 

The factory LS truck starter should work.

 

No blinking flashers. I'm sure there are several CEL's on the Rover side but most are from missing components removed for the swap. Has anyone been able to code out various errors from coming back in the future? Either way, it's a good point I'll check and report back.

Thank you for the advice! Excuse my basic knowledge but how do I check tach signal?
I did try to start it while the fuel pump was manually running and had no luck with that either... Would that point more to fuel pump rather than CPS?

 

If you can get the engine running (with or without fuel relay jumped), then you should be able to see the RPM signal show up on the dash. If there's no tach signal when the engine is running then that is pointing to a problem with the CPS. That would be the place to start under those circumstances.

If you can't get fuel pressure with the fuel pump relay jumped, then that points to an issue with the fuel pump. Make sure you are jumping the relay the correct way. Also make sure your battery is charged. If the pressure is weak, then I would consider looking at a new fuel pump.

If you can get decent fuel pressure, and still have a no start, then I would probably start looking at GM ECM and its wiring. The LS should start as long as it has fuel pressure and 12V on the power wire. If this is the case, I would probably start checking for spark, make sure GM side is getting power and working, etc.

 

Just wanted to update everyone on the issue I had in case some runs into the same. As a reminder, I was getting no fuel pressure from the fuel pump when cranking the engine. Good pressure (~50psi) when jumping the fuel pump relay in the engine bay. Here was the testing that I did. I tried firing the engine up after each step but was only successful on the last step.

1. Checked if the inertia switch was triggered, and pressed down on the top to reset it
2. Swapped the crankshaft position sensor out
3. Tried starting the engine while the fuel pump relay was jumped
4. Unplugged the inertia switch and jumped the two wires on the harness connector to rule out a bad switch
5. Checked the red blinking light on the speedo to see if the immobilizer was possibly triggered (light would be solid red instead of blinking if it was triggered)
6. MY ACTUAL ISSUE: Fuse 24 (10amp) was blown in the interior fuse box
   1. this is tied to the Alternator, automatic transmission and engine management

Why this fuse blew is beyond me but I sure am glad to have the car running again. Thank you to 05TurboS2K and CaptainAaron for their troubleshooting guidance!