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Does the tail pipe tend to rattle inside the trim bezel at idle or any other time. Seems this could be quite annoying if it does. Just wondering. Love the function of it though. Saw Lost Cause Ranch did a swap and did the same thing. I didn't get a look behind the quarter panel to see the magic that keeps the pipe from rattling.
LS swap question. If ACE is monitoring please chime in. Found out in my Speartech stand alone LS harness that the VSS wire harness with a purple and a yellow wire that Yellow is pin 21 or high. I have been driving around with these swapped to the ECB since I was just reading when I hooked them up and Purple in most cases was high. Well assumption made an *** out of me at least. Question I have is could this cause the M and S to flash with D flashing? Also if the vehicle is running and I clear the codes I can use the Mode button normally and all is well with only the Sport light on. Tach and Speedometer work normally. WTH? Anyway I am switching them atm and will see what happens next. Does this kill my ECB? Any help is appreciated. Running an L33 and a TerraFirma 3" lift kit. Fantastic performance with just the one issue. Hope this is the issue and I haven't F'ed up the ECB. Important note is that I raised the idle to 750 in HP tuners as advised in the swap instructions and all other parameters for transmission were verified at the time. Also I would guess it wouldn't matter whch way the crank sensor is bolted to the bracket as in wires toward the block or away from the block? Besides the rod knocking on the old 4.0 there were no codes and the truck drove just fine.
So I switched the wires and soldered. No change in the issue. Another thing is if I clear the codes on the Rover ECU with the key on and engine not running the lights stop flashing and I can have the sport mode selected and light on. When I start the engine the lights start flashing and I have to clear the codes again while the engine is running. Could the ignition switch be dropping power at startup or is the crank position sensor code that I get along with all the other nuisance codes causing the problem. I get 19 or so codes from having the rover ECU not running sensors but not sure if the CKPS is supposed to be coming up. It is adjusted at .016 and everything else works once the codes are cleared. Anyone having similar issues. Beautiful swap though and will get it worked out hopefully. Don't want to have to clear the codes every time. My code reader will not access the ABS or Transmission so I cant look at those but the codes that it can access on the Rover ECU once cleared make the problem go away. ODD
VSS wires and M/S lights are unrelated issues for the most part.
Sounds like M/S could be a voltage issue. I’d check condition of alternator and battery first. Is alternator output voltage at idle good? Is battery voltage good? Is the idle speed dropping below 600 for any length of time?
If it is not any of the above, then I would check to see if your CKP bracket is loose and rattling when the car is started.
If that is not it, then I would spin the CKP wheel around by hand and look to make sure that there is no wobble (front to back). Also make sure the distance from the sensor to the teeth is consistent as the wheel goes around.
VSS wires and M/S lights are unrelated issues for the most part.
Sounds like M/S could be a voltage issue. I’d check condition of alternator and battery first. Is alternator output voltage at idle good? Is battery voltage good? Is the idle speed dropping below 600 for any length of time?
If it is not any of the above, then I would check to see if your CKP bracket is loose and rattling when the car is started.
If that is not it, then I would spin the CKP wheel around by hand and look to make sure that there is no wobble (front to back). Also make sure the distance from the sensor to the teeth is consistent as the wheel goes around.
Thanks for your reply. I will check the voltage and just ordered a P38 alternator. Battery is new group 24 huge battery that shows 13 plus volts but I do agree that it must drop volts during the starter cycle and then the low voltage sets the lights flashing. CKP bracket is tight and I even turned the ckps around just for giggles. gap is consistant and wheel does run true then also got a 4th gear ratio incorrect code. Once running and lights cleared it is perfectly normal. Bought some credits for my buddies HP Tuner program and checked all shift parameters and set the idle to 750. Just odd that if it works once running and codes cleared all components should be good.or it looks as if it would set the lights flashing again so voltage must be the main issue. How about the ignition switch itself? I used the ACE harness support which I thought was worth the money but during issues like this I can see how modifying the harness myself would have been helpful so I would know the Rover harness a bit more.. Does the Rover computer always set crank and cam position sensor faults? Mine always has a ckps A circiut message and cam position sensor which would be normal I would think but once theyre cleared along with all the other codes it is fine. Anyway, I will keep checking items off.
Thanks for your reply. I will check the voltage and just ordered a P38 alternator. Battery is new group 24 huge battery that shows 13 plus volts but I do agree that it must drop volts during the starter cycle and then the low voltage sets the lights flashing. CKP bracket is tight and I even turned the ckps around just for giggles. gap is consistant and wheel does run true then also got a 4th gear ratio incorrect code. Once running and lights cleared it is perfectly normal. Bought some credits for my buddies HP Tuner program and checked all shift parameters and set the idle to 750. Just odd that if it works once running and codes cleared all components should be good.or it looks as if it would set the lights flashing again so voltage must be the main issue. How about the ignition switch itself? I used the ACE harness support which I thought was worth the money but during issues like this I can see how modifying the harness myself would have been helpful so I would know the Rover harness a bit more.. Does the Rover computer always set crank and cam position sensor faults? Mine always has a ckps A circiut message and cam position sensor which would be normal I would think but once theyre cleared along with all the other codes it is fine. Anyway, I will keep checking items off.
The 4th gear ratio code in my experience also can come from low fluid, so I would make sure the fluid level is correct by doing the proper fill procedure. You may need to get a reader that can read the transmission ECU specifically. That would give you a better idea of what the exact cause of the M/S lights are. It will tell you low voltage or position switch or engine speed.
The Rover ECU will always have cam sensor faults because there is no cam sensor hooked up. The crank sensor faults should go away if the sensor is perfectly aligned, but some of them run fine with no M/S lights and good tach signal and still record the occasional code. Ignition switch is not involved.
I’d consider reaching out to Todd to ACE. You may need to play with the sensor alignment. It may be very slightly off.
Anybody try shifting their radiator over to the passenger side? There are two sets of holes in my frame rail already and it seems to line up better on the fan if shifted over. The clearance on the power steering cooling loop at the driver's side seems better if the radiator is shifted too. The only catch is that this would require some mods on the upper rad mounts and then the intake might be tighter on the shroud.
I did figure out a simple hack for the evap relocation too. I'm assuming I can use either the rover or the gm evap purge valve? The rover one is a little easier since it's built like an inline fuel filter. It took a 1/2-1/2 pex fitting with some sealant tapped into the factory gm evap plug and a 3/8-3/8 (could have used 1/2") barb elbow and some random tubing.
Also wtf on the 99.5" belt? Nothing like making it so tight you don't need a tensioner.
Last edited by Karmakannon; 07-01-2022 at 07:27 PM.
Anybody try shifting their radiator over to the passenger side? There are two sets of holes in my frame rail already and it seems to line up better on the fan if shifted over. The clearance on the power steering cooling loop at the driver's side seems better if the radiator is shifted too. The only catch is that this would require some mods on the upper rad mounts and then the intake might be tighter on the shroud.
I did figure out a simple hack for the evap relocation too. I'm assuming I can use either the rover or the gm evap purge valve? The rover one is a little easier since it's built like an inline fuel filter. It took a 1/2-1/2 pex fitting with some sealant tapped into the factory gm evap plug and a 3/8-3/8 (could have used 1/2") barb elbow and some random tubing.
Also wtf on the 99.5" belt? Nothing like making it so tight you don't need a tensioner.
I went with a larger idler under the A/C compressor and used a 100" belt per their alternate belt instructions. That was for in case it was squealing with the 99.5" belt. I found that my tensioner on the driver side needed a shot of spray lube to move freely. The larger idler I used worked perfectly and was off a VW TDI ALH timing belt setup. Correct bushing and bolt size and perfect offset and also a quality part. Just one I had laying around from a timing belt replacement some time ago. It is still a task to get that sucker on but does go on and once on the tensioner moves close to the middle line on the body.
I went with a larger idler under the A/C compressor and used a 100" belt per their alternate belt instructions. That was for in case it was squealing with the 99.5" belt. I found that my tensioner on the driver side needed a shot of spray lube to move freely. The larger idler I used worked perfectly and was off a VW TDI ALH timing belt setup. Correct bushing and bolt size and perfect offset and also a quality part. Just one I had laying around from a timing belt replacement some time ago. It is still a task to get that sucker on but does go on and once on the tensioner moves close to the middle line on the body.
I'm not sure if my setup is somehow extremely unique or what, but both tensioners we're maxed out and I still had to put the belt on by spinning the engine like how you would spin a bike crank to install a chain. The tensioners barely budged after I released them. I'm still deciding if this is going to be too much tension or if the belt might loosen a bit after some running.
Anybody remember what heater hose size they used? The instructions note I need 5/8" and 3/4". The gm water pump has what looks like a 5/8" and a 3/4", but the rover heater fittings at the firewall are both the same size and look to be 5/8". I'm wondering if I can get the 5/8 hose to stretch over the gm 3/4" fitting because the 3/4" line is super loose on the rover firewall heater fitting.
I also can verify that the summit manifolds with the ball flange (SUM-G9084) do fit. The kit lists the flat flange style, but I wanted the flared or what I'd call ball flange style because they give just a tad of misalignment. I also think they might seal better. The driver's side is tight, but that seems to be because the engine isn't straight and no matter of ratchet straps and loosening transmission and engine mounts seems to change that. I got it fairly straight. I'll say it isn't noticable unless you are working on the manifolds or the fan/radiator.
Has anyone experimented by unplugging the Land Rover maf on their good running setups?
I did today and did not notice any perceived difference in shifting.
I may run it unplugged for a week or so and if I don't notice anything I may delete it to clean up my intake setup.
In my experience shifting gets rougher over time without it. It is used for torque calculation. Without it, the system defaults back to fail safes from throttle position, but they are not as accurate. Best to keep it in. Needs to remain in its original-diameter housing, otherwise the readings will be off, which will cause worse problems.
If you move to Compushift you don't need the MAF, but that is its own project.
In my experience shifting gets rougher over time without it. It is used for torque calculation. Without it, the system defaults back to fail safes from throttle position, but they are not as accurate. Best to keep it in. Needs to remain in its original-diameter housing, otherwise the readings will be off, which will cause worse problems.
If you move to Compushift you don't need the MAF, but that is its own project.
Thanks for the input. I'm going to run it without for a bit to see if I can notice anything.
06-30-2022, 10:53 AM
