I believe they are but have a very long wait list.

 

I will find it later today and post it.

I know you said to ignore the second issue, but I still have a couple tips if it's not quite right: You will probably need to modify the engine mounts a little. I had to slot mine out to get enough adjustment. When I had the same issue, the thing that solved it was loosening the transmission mount bolts. Land Rover was very smart and slotted the holes the trans mounts to so you can get a prybar and shift the whole driveline forward a bit. The cylinder head on the passenger side was touching my firewall and I was able to move everything around to get about an inch of clearance.

 

I hope everyone's swap has been working out well. Mine has been great for the last year or so. Early on, I had the problem of having to crank twice to start the truck and it was suggested that it was my injectors, or the check valve in the fuel pump (or fuel pump itself). Problaby wasn't wise, but I just ignored the issue because I needed the use of the truck for a big project and kept driving it. It drove great during that time.

Two days ago, upon startup, the car engine had a shake to it (unlike before with no shake). The acceleration was shaky early on the throttle, but otherwise drove fine. I only drove it home in that condition and parked it. I decided to finally fix the issue, or so I thought, and replace all the injectors once and for all. Initially, I only bench cleaned the original ones, so assumed that this would be my only problem.

After installing all of the new injectors, I go to start it after priming a few times, but no start. I unplugged the battery for a few hours then tried again, same. I pulled all the injectors, individually tested them with a tester (one of those injector testers that pulses them) and all appear to be fine. Reinstalled them and it'll crank, but no start. Pressing the gas throughout this process does nothing. No codes either. I'm not sure what the heck to do. I also checked the plugs for fouling and they are clean and dry. I have the BP ecu and all fuses appear to be intact and have continuity.

I would appreciate any help. I'll be checking pressure at the fuel rail when I pickup a kit tomorrow morning. Fuel is making it to the rail though, because when I pull the rail, fuel dumps out (not back into the cyclinder).

*Update: I've changed the fuel pump and now it will start just fine, but the vibration at low revs (1500-2000) is still there. I'm wondering if the harmonic balancer could have come out of balance. I can't just replace it, since it is custom. I'm not quite sure what to do at this point.

 

Thanks, on the ECB if you know were it would be listed I can look it up, I can't find any info.

On the mounts you are right, even with the change I had to make some mods to the length (they were sitting on the top of the frame rails) and the holes needed opened up on the driver side big time. I had the two transmission mounts loose and moved forward. I do now have about 3/4" clearance on the firewall. Thanks again

 

I don't have it digitally either and it took me a bit to find my swap manual. The ECB wiring came printed with my kit and wasn't part of the download. Please keep in mind that I have an early kit so the wires may not be the same color for you. The colors listed below are what I think are both versions. I talked to Todd (ACE owner) on the phone when I installed it because my ECB didn't match the wire colors on the paper he sent. He named the colors of both the older and newer PCB and I wrote them down.

ECB Wiring
Rover VSS = RED
GM VSS POS = YELLOW
GM VSS NEG = GREEN or BLUE
GM TPS = BROWN or GRAY
ROVER TPS = BLACK

Pay attention when patching it into the Rover harness because I remember there being two very similarly colored wires in the Rover harness. I think it was the Rover VSS listed as tan with a green stripe. I think there was a yellow with a green stripe that was VERY similar in color. You need a bright light to tell them apart. You do have the "Dashboard Connection Supplement Manual", correct?? This won't be any good without that.

 

Thank you,
I have the newer small ECB box. I have red. black, green, yellow, and blue. Came in a small zip lock with no info. Yes I have all the downloaded manuals, I've read through each like 10 times looking for this info.
though I was going crazy that the color codes were missing.
I had ACE do my rover harness, so it looks like they pulled and cut the tan with a green striped wire.
E-mailed ACE a few weeks ago, no response. Going to follow up again

 

Hello all,

New to this forum but have been a rover enthusiast for over 20 years now. Has anyone been able to confirm if ACE is still providing conversion kits? I have not been able to contact them. My condensed sob story: Started with a 2000 Disco 2, over the years have modified for off-road, ARB lockers, GBR shafts, 4" terrafirma lift, upgraded shafts, Ashcroft transmission, etc. etc.. We were recovering a disabled Jeep while on the Rubicon and ended up tweaking the frame, doors very hard to open with rock sliders. I purchased a 2004 Disco and transferred all the good stuff. I had just completed when, maybe 3 months of local road driving, when the engine slipped a rod. I am looking to do an LS swap. If ACE is no longer an option are there others? Anyone from CA bay area that has done this?

Any good advise welcome.

bob v

All downhill from here!

 

The ECB is spliced into wires in the passenger footwell, not in the engine wiring harness you would have sent off to ACE.

 

The best I can say is that their email auto-responder says "There is not an estimated time for availability, you should look elsewhere for your Discovery 2 needs." so I don't think there will be more kits from them. There are some other companies developing them. There are a couple Disco LS Swap groups on Facebook with "USA Land Rover Discovery 2 LS Swap" being the most active. If you're on FB, hop over there and ask for alternatives. I remember there being a few discussions about it in the past.

 

If there's not anyone producing a "kit" like this in the future and good LR motors become really hard to source what are the alternatives for a swap? Rip out all the LR computers and custom wiring for full GM drivetrain? That's assuming the rest of the Disco is sound.