Thank you for the reply and confirming that we should not expect to see the ACE kit anymore. I am working on getting a 4L80e transmission and move with the swap. I am also working to get the different signals back to the GM PCM and to the Discovery TCC and ECU to get full functionality. I will keep everyone posted, it will take me a little time as this is my side project. I have being doing my research and I have a good idea of what I want to try and continue iterating.

 

I really don't think this is true at all. Do you know this to be true? The LS engine ECM controls the 4L80 (or 6L80 if you're using a 4th gen LS), and I wouldn't exactly describe it as 'married;' it's a factory setup, after all.. and I really don't think it requires an aftermarket gearbox control unit all; the stock shift points will work fine. So maybe let's not say those things. Moreover, you will get water/coolant temp to the gauge cluster if you run the water temp sensor from the disco--just like ACE does.

Tach and speedometer are not insurmountable and certainly easier than the swap overall. Once those are sorted--again, easier than, say, installing a cam in the engine--traction control will work fine.

I've just done an ACE swap, and I would definitely do a 4th gen LS w/ 6L80 next time. From experience, it's far easier and more robust than any ACE kit. If anyone is thinking of a swap, be careful you will you take advice from.

--Chris

 

Greetings from Tennessee. Unfortunately I found my way here after attempting to purchase an ACE kit for a customers 2004 Disco 2. What is the most logical and proven way to complete this swap with ACE going away? I really want to try to save this swap for my customer. Its my understanding that the 4l60 interferes with the transfer case, and a 4l80 is a better option. Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, a supplier of parts would be great also!

 

There is a adapter to mount the Rover transfer case to a to a 4L80, let me look it up and post. It does require the driveshaft to be shortened if I remember 2".
https://www.advanceadapters.com/4815

 

any tips on doing the 4th gen swap w/ 6l80? What was so wrong with with ACE swap?

 

6L80 will shift normally with factory TCM, but with most factory setups, it will not be able to hold gears without custom programming. That functionality is basically essential for offroading. To get that functionality (tap shift), it either needs a module or certain shifters to go along with the programming.
This is inaccurate. Solving the gauge problem will not solve the traction control problem.

Gen 4 is not easier. The drivetrain is longer. Lots of moving stuff around, lots of fabrication required. Electrical is significantly more complex as well because many things for GM Gen 4 are on Can-bus, and it uses a drive-by-wire throttle. Gen 4 / 6L80 is possible, but it is inaccurate to think that Gen 4/6L80 is easier than Gen 3/4HP.

A summary of other transmissions

4L60 = significant inference with the transfer case.

4L80 = long transmission and long adapter means drivetrain is 6+ inches longer than stock, which makes for some fitting challenges.

6L80 = a bit longer setup than stock (~3.5 in), but comes with significantly more electrical issues to overcome, notably tap-shift (and shifter / programming). Gen 4 further complicates cruise control, air conditioning, park interlock, shifter indication, low range interlock …

Most that have gone these routes have lacked good integration between the GM / LR sides. Getting a swap to roll under its own power takes effort, but getting a swap to roll under its own power and work like factory is difficult.

 

Just finishing up the wiring hopefully 1st start will be in a week or so.

Current place

 

Of the seemingly infinite ways to accomplish an engine swap, the good captain has the the only solution--that's absolute. The tap shift--which everyone simply must have--can only be had with custom programming. The GM factory had zero clue when designing a truck (or for that matter, anything) to go off-road; they just didn't have the developmental budget. ECM controlled fans? Nah, go stand-alone. Drive by wire? Eff that--too complicated and never mind the reluctor wheel. All the kids at the car meet this weekend enthusiastically explained what they were able to accomplish; not what was impossible.

On any swap, where the rubber meets the road lies in the ability to fabricate. If you can fabricate, you can make most things work the right way. What's easy to some is impossible to others, and they will tell you. And that's why some folks confuse the right way with the easy way; that's how my $2300 ACE kit was conceptualized. That's money I could have used to do the swap the right way. Shame on me for believing it was the only way.

Again, my opinion--and I didn't help develop the ACE kit--the transfer case adaptor is the right solution.

--Chris

 

Chris,

You made the comment:
I did not make that claim. My point above was:
You further discuss “the right way.” In my opinion, “the right way” does not depend specifically on the choice of drivetrain, “the right way” means factory-level integration, or near-factory level integration of the foreign drivetrain, so that all (or nearly all) of the factory stuff operates. I’ve never said the Gen 4 and 6L80 was impossible - I’ve discussed the technical hurdles to that setup, and discussed solutions to overcome them.

Both swaps can be done; however, the amount of work involved and cost can be vastly different. What is best for each person will be dependent on their situation. However, it is simply inaccurate to describe both of these methods as comparable projects. Many people overlook the electrical complexity and underestimate the amount of fabrication. Even if someone has the fabrication ability, fabrication will not solve the electrical issues. This is why I’d describe many of the Gen 4 / 6L80 swaps I’ve seen as “incomplete.”

Having reviewed builds of both types, observed the parts required, the costs of each, and what it takes to make each work to a similar level of functionality, the Gen 3 and the 4HP setup is more straightforward to finish. People should be aware of what they are getting into.

To further elucidate the comments regarding Gen 4:

The tap-shift is a substantial issue if you plan on offroading. Having manual mode that holds the gear for the transmission is an important feature if crossing an obstacle. GM did plan for this, but with their Corvette TCM OS. Since most people are using truck engines/ transmissions as donors which do not provide this functionality, they need custom programming, so that the Corvette OS programmed into the truck TCM can be used to overcome this. You most-likely would need a tuner that knows what they are doing to get this to work correctly. Since the TCM is located inside the 6L80, this often involves removing the 6L80 valve body to remove the TCM to send it out to be tuned with the ECM. If you have someone local that can do this, or can remote into your computer and tune (e.g., with HPTuners) you might be able to get around this last part.

For the shifter, you can use the factory shifter with a dedicated switch for tap shift, or you have to fit a new shifter that supports tap shift. Changing the factory shifter to work with the 6L80’s throw is easier, because a lot of the GM shifters are deep, and the 6L80 transmission is tight up against the top of the transmission tunnel. The neutral safety switch, low range lockout, reverse lights, and gear indications on the dash are other issues that tie into this. There are varying ways to solve these issues, but the way that preserves the most functionality requires dedicated electronics. Similar to what I designed here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/en...nstall-115683/

All the later GM ECMs have the ability to control electric fans via relays without separate controllers. PWM fans that can ramp up/down require separate controllers. With using the 4HP setup you can also run a viscous fan, but this is more difficult with the 4L80 and 6L80 because of the length.

The GM drive-by-wire is a substantial issue if you’re running the 4HP, as they have electrical compatibility issues. Besides fitting the pedal, the other issue is cruise control. It adds significantly more under dash wiring to use the GM cruise control with the factory buttons. For Gen 4, aftermarket cruise control systems or can-bus interfaces are required, which is an additional expense.

 

Here's my review: