Discovery 2 LS Conversion
#881
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm still getting M&S lights flashing every few start ups so I clear the code for every drive (4 drives so far of a few min each), Crank position sensor error shows so I'm sure I need to fine tune there but the tach works fine it seems....... "1/6th inch or 1.58mm" spec is given.
I'm a little surprised by this as I have it less than 1mm away when I first installed it. I can slip 2 business cards through the gap just barely. I'll have to bust out the feelers and gauge this. Perhaps I'm too close? Can anyone with some experience give us all the feeler gauge specs that worked for them? I think the manual stated a bigger gap but yesterday I played with a bigger gap and had no luck.
-Greg
I'm a little surprised by this as I have it less than 1mm away when I first installed it. I can slip 2 business cards through the gap just barely. I'll have to bust out the feelers and gauge this. Perhaps I'm too close? Can anyone with some experience give us all the feeler gauge specs that worked for them? I think the manual stated a bigger gap but yesterday I played with a bigger gap and had no luck.
-Greg
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-29-2020 at 08:57 AM.
#882
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It turns out that the idler pulley shown under the temp sensor in my above photos can be replaced with my tensioner pulley that I just removed to replace with a new tensioner. The bolt needs to be reused that comes from the engine but the pulley itself has grooves and this allows the belt to be wrapped on the other side of the pulley which increases the contact patch on the water pump and cured the problem. I don't know if I described that well..... I used the worn out tensioner pulley in place of the smooth pulley right next to the water pump.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
#883
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Glad to hear you got the belt sorted. I’ve never had a problem with routing the other way, but at least it seems like the change was free and did the trick. I’ll keep that in mind if it ever becomes a problem.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
#884
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Reset the idle? I'm having an issue right now where the idle will fall very low and the truck will stall when I'm coming to a full stop. I have a new cam installed and the tune on the GM ECU is from a 2004 GTO so I figured that I just need a custom tune to sort this out. I was also thinking of adjusting the idle manually by using the throttle wire and screws. So just curious what route you went to adjust your idle. Thanks for the help!
#886
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ask me after 10k miles haha. I'm confident the reliability will be worth it in the end. Not really an issue with the swap but could sway some from choosing the LM4 over the LM7 as I might have an oil leak on my rear main seal. I went the extra mile and rebuilt my junkyard sourced engine and might have missed something with the rear seal. Very light leak but apparently LM4 engines are quite porous and might need additional RTV sealant around the back seal.
#887
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Glad to hear you got the belt sorted. I’ve never had a problem with routing the other way, but at least it seems like the change was free and did the trick. I’ll keep that in mind if it ever becomes a problem.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
#888
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Glad to hear you got the belt sorted. I’ve never had a problem with routing the other way, but at least it seems like the change was free and did the trick. I’ll keep that in mind if it ever becomes a problem.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
I would check the wheel for runout. If it is moving back and forth next to the sensor it will occasionally drop out. I spun the engine over by hand to check and correct. Also check that your RPM isn’t falling too low at idle. Before I reset the idle, it would sometimes idle at 550 or so, which would cause the sensor to record an error, but not actually lose signal.
I believe my XYZ switch is working correctly. I'm curious, is the crank position error putting your vehicles into limp mode as well? Or is that XYZ related only? I am getting limp mode with the M&S light which comes on every few starts. Once it comes on it comes on even when the vehicle is not running but ignition is on. My rear wiper does come on so I know the XYZ switch mostly works but perhaps it has momentary issues I wouldn't spot.
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-30-2020 at 04:03 PM.
#889
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You're asking about a Land Rover in regards to power/reliability/time/money?
Buy a Jeep Wrangler. Or a Toyota 4Runner or....well pretty much anything but a Discovery. LOL
In a year I'll be able to answer better how I feel about this swap. There's nothing logical about owning this vehicle much less putting money into it though.
I too have a leak somewhere from the back, either main seal or the sensor for oil pressure that we tapped. I HOPE it's not main seal...... Mine is enough that I'd consider it to be too much to daily drive. I also have the aluminum LM4 instead of the LM7.
Last edited by 05TurboS2K; 07-30-2020 at 04:00 PM.
#890
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)