can i use rad weld
You could try a small quantity, but think about the downside:
The liquid "stopz leekz" products use about a match head sized quantity of material to make a temporary fix. How long it lasts is anyone's guess. Most work with "water glass" (sodium silicate) and some additive (clay, ground walnut shells, copper dust, aluminum flakes, and now - nano-particles)
The rest of the bottle goes through your cooling system and can:
A. Settle to the low spot (the lower parts of the radiator) and seal that off, reducing cooling and making engine overheat on warm days.
B. Seal every crevice it can find (like all the rough ones inside the radiator from scale build up) - closing off most of the radiator.
C. Coat the entire inside of the cooling system, like wearing a sweater on a hot summer day...
D. Seal other cracks, like the one around the part of the thermsotat that moves open and closed to regulate engine temp.
And if you have other weak spots, like a marginal hose, it may go "pop" from the leak being "repaired".
If your leak is related to AC condensate, might not involve the heater core, could just be drains plugged up.
The RAVE tech manuals below have the whole set of manuals for the Freelander. While it would not be my first choice of a DIY project, the shop will assign a mortal techician. He has confidence and the motivation to buy a new flat screen. DIY and you'll save enough to buy an even better flat screen....
The liquid "stopz leekz" products use about a match head sized quantity of material to make a temporary fix. How long it lasts is anyone's guess. Most work with "water glass" (sodium silicate) and some additive (clay, ground walnut shells, copper dust, aluminum flakes, and now - nano-particles)
The rest of the bottle goes through your cooling system and can:
A. Settle to the low spot (the lower parts of the radiator) and seal that off, reducing cooling and making engine overheat on warm days.
B. Seal every crevice it can find (like all the rough ones inside the radiator from scale build up) - closing off most of the radiator.
C. Coat the entire inside of the cooling system, like wearing a sweater on a hot summer day...
D. Seal other cracks, like the one around the part of the thermsotat that moves open and closed to regulate engine temp.
And if you have other weak spots, like a marginal hose, it may go "pop" from the leak being "repaired".
If your leak is related to AC condensate, might not involve the heater core, could just be drains plugged up.
The RAVE tech manuals below have the whole set of manuals for the Freelander. While it would not be my first choice of a DIY project, the shop will assign a mortal techician. He has confidence and the motivation to buy a new flat screen. DIY and you'll save enough to buy an even better flat screen....
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Oct 12, 2011 at 04:33 AM.
a question for you ???
1st i live in NYC and the street is my garage so i am limited by the amount of DIY i can do.
2nd The RAVE says i must remove dash to fix core and Orings
3rd The $ prices i am getting quoted are insane 975.if i supply the parts
is there a way to check orings for leaks without the removal of dash .
there is a leak but it is so tiny slow miniscule but it is a leak none the less
thanks DREW
1st i live in NYC and the street is my garage so i am limited by the amount of DIY i can do.
2nd The RAVE says i must remove dash to fix core and Orings
3rd The $ prices i am getting quoted are insane 975.if i supply the parts
is there a way to check orings for leaks without the removal of dash .
there is a leak but it is so tiny slow miniscule but it is a leak none the less
thanks DREW
1. Download the RAVE, look in file pdf\ln01, that is the Freelander section [where did you see O-rings?] [of course, I could also be on the wrong page]
2. When I looked, the shop manual did not show O-rings (which are common on Range Rovers). The heater matrix seems to be a straight "tiny radiator" affair, with two fixed metal lines that go thru the firewall to engine compartment. Coolant circulates at all times through these lines. SO - one test might be to disable these connections by removing hoses and connecting together with clamps and hose splice pipe. That would confirm that it is indeed the heat leaking, not AC condensation. And a blocked drain.
3. The drawings show removal of the heater matrix, don't mention an O ring inside or even show a joint inside. So if you had a coolant leak, seems like you would be dealing with hot coolant under some pressure. [Maybe it is not a coolant leak - are you having loss of coolant from resivoir?]
4. Drawings make it look like this would be somewhat of a pain to get to, but nothing out of the ordinary. More that you are going to have to be a pretzle to get to some things.
2. When I looked, the shop manual did not show O-rings (which are common on Range Rovers). The heater matrix seems to be a straight "tiny radiator" affair, with two fixed metal lines that go thru the firewall to engine compartment. Coolant circulates at all times through these lines. SO - one test might be to disable these connections by removing hoses and connecting together with clamps and hose splice pipe. That would confirm that it is indeed the heat leaking, not AC condensation. And a blocked drain.
3. The drawings show removal of the heater matrix, don't mention an O ring inside or even show a joint inside. So if you had a coolant leak, seems like you would be dealing with hot coolant under some pressure. [Maybe it is not a coolant leak - are you having loss of coolant from resivoir?]
4. Drawings make it look like this would be somewhat of a pain to get to, but nothing out of the ordinary. More that you are going to have to be a pretzle to get to some things.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Oct 12, 2011 at 01:31 PM.
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