I decided to go ahead and buy a new water pump, radiator hoses,
Spark plugs, wires and of course the head gasket set. I mainly have 2 concerns/ questions..
If I use the studs is there anything I should know that would be worth noting because the set im looking at online says torque to 100 ft lbs and I think its safe to assume that I will destroy something tightening them that far.. Also for the SAI system can I remove the head while they are connected to the head? Or do I have to remove the heads? If I have to remove them is there gaskets or O rings that will need to be replaced?

Thanks,
Gage

 

The things to remember with the studs, Make sure you clean the threads in the block with a thread chaser and not a regular tap(chaser will clean the threads and not take material off), use the perm-torque thread lubricant and make sure you screw in the stud until it bottoms out on the block(do not torque or use a wrench to "tighten"), follow the torque sequence per their instructions. They will not damage or destroy anything. The SAI system is bolted to the valve covers and to the heads, so it is best to remove from head(you may need to hold the adapters that are in the head while removing the pipes) and there are no o-rings to worry about, they are compression fittings.

 

If you are purchasing the ARP studs, they will come with really good installation instructions. Just follow them to a "T".

 

My buddy just did ARP studs. The instructions said 60 ft lbs. starting with 20, then 40, and finally 60.

Also, he used red loctite on the stud threads into the block.

He has done many of these and is very knowledgable. He also re torqued after 2 weeks.

 

Are you sure of those numbers?i believe ARP calls for much higher like 80-90 lbs. But follow the directions as stated, You might want to re think the red locktite on a D2. I believe you have to install the drivers side head before the two rear studs are installed iirc.

 

I think I'm just going to use the normal TTY bolts for now I really don't want to ruin something.. I appreciate the ideas though anything that could give me an edge is helpful

 

ARP says, no retorque is necessary unless called for by head gasket manufacturer. They also recommend their permatorque thread sealer, but said blue locktite can be used.
studs can be installed after head or before if there is enough room for the head to go on.

 

Ok, I got the heads off last night firing ring blew as expected thankfully no damage to the block or head. The rear bottom head bolt on driver side.. What a PITA! Anyway this morning I received a call from my parts store, they said my parts were two weeks out.. If I order the parts from Atlantic British what am I looking at as far as receiving them? Also How in the hell am I going to reach a torque wrench on that back bolt? I could barely fit a socket and wrench on it?

 

you don't say where you are but AB probably would have had you the parts in like three days, im on the east coast sometimes next day but never more than two days.
To tighten the head bolts i use a 5/8 6 point impact with a short extension, you just want to clear the top of the head. any time you use an extension you want to use the shortest possible as they throw your torque number off. leaving the rocker shaft off untill the head is torque may make it easier.