HELP! Totally Locked out of 2003 DII because of dead battery! key wont work, AAA cant break into it
#12
Newbie, sorry if posted in wrong place!!
Hi, Im new here and this seemed to be a similar prob to what im having with central locking too, with my recently purchased 99disco td5..
to start with the battery had died on the previous owner,it looked like the original to be fair, so for piece of mind bought new battery which is now fitted..
so the keyfob/handset will lock the car but wont unlock,
it will disarm so i can manually unlock drivers door,
the button by clock will open the boot, but no other doors (you can hear the other doors unlocking but they dont) and can manually open doors from inside...any ideas much appreciated
have also downloaded the rave thingy...
help
Newbie, sorry if posted in wrong place!!
to start with the battery had died on the previous owner,it looked like the original to be fair, so for piece of mind bought new battery which is now fitted..
so the keyfob/handset will lock the car but wont unlock,
it will disarm so i can manually unlock drivers door,
the button by clock will open the boot, but no other doors (you can hear the other doors unlocking but they dont) and can manually open doors from inside...any ideas much appreciated
have also downloaded the rave thingy...
help
Newbie, sorry if posted in wrong place!!
#13
Hey disco mike, I have a question for you. I have done this same thing now and am wondering, you said you could get to the latch from the front or underneath the grill. When you say from the front of the grill, do you mean as is or do I have to break the grill? Thanks any help would be appreciated, by the way its a 99 disco II.
#14
Odd, my 99 has an anti-tampering plate surrounding the hood latch that wouldn't allow anyone to manually actuate the latch.
On dead battery situations, connect a jump pack (or another battery) to the (+) battery terminal of the starter, and the (-) to the chassis or starter body to power the vehicle and unlock the doors and disarm the alarm.
This may or may not work if the vehicle was superlocked prior to the battery going flat.
On dead battery situations, connect a jump pack (or another battery) to the (+) battery terminal of the starter, and the (-) to the chassis or starter body to power the vehicle and unlock the doors and disarm the alarm.
This may or may not work if the vehicle was superlocked prior to the battery going flat.
#15
kevman1
I am totally confused, I am totally locked out of my 03 Disco I opened the hood through the grill and checked my battery and it seems to be ok. FOB or key won't work I called a Locksmith and he couldn't get in I am afraid to tow to a dealer I don't want to damage anything or waste any $$$
#16
Now that you opened the hood the truck is probably even more immobilized because the alarm thinks you tried to break in. Did you check battery with a meter or just eyeball it? Meaning that a dead or low battery looks just about like a perky full charged one. One method to deal with a low battery is to attach jumper cables to frame and the big electrical nut on the starter, which runs directly to the battery. This can be done from under the truck without opening the hood.
Can you see the red LED on the dash - if so, what is it doing?
If you are going to jump the vehicle with the hood open, press down and hold the hood switch before you start, when the truck wakes up you do not want it to think it is under attack.
Can you see the red LED on the dash - if so, what is it doing?
If you are going to jump the vehicle with the hood open, press down and hold the hood switch before you start, when the truck wakes up you do not want it to think it is under attack.
#17
#18
Odd, my 99 has an anti-tampering plate surrounding the hood latch that wouldn't allow anyone to manually actuate the latch.
On dead battery situations, connect a jump pack (or another battery) to the (+) battery terminal of the starter, and the (-) to the chassis or starter body to power the vehicle and unlock the doors and disarm the alarm.
This may or may not work if the vehicle was superlocked prior to the battery going flat.
On dead battery situations, connect a jump pack (or another battery) to the (+) battery terminal of the starter, and the (-) to the chassis or starter body to power the vehicle and unlock the doors and disarm the alarm.
This may or may not work if the vehicle was superlocked prior to the battery going flat.
I was able to get my hood open by peeling off a few inches of the black hard plastic from the hood latch cable. Then just pulled on it with a pair of pliers and it was open. I want to add that I didn't cause any damage to the grill or anything by doing this, which is what I was looking for.
The only thing worth mentioning is that the hood latch switch in the truck no longer works from me pulling on it like I did. It cause a bunch of slack and it is no longer tight enough to pull it that way.
#20
You have become an adult and encountered many vehicles along the way. The use of a feature that locks all internal doors handles to complicate theft has not been a feature in most of them. I certainly have not felt the need to trade in a D1 to get this feature. The potential for problems seems to outweight the benefits of the system. Yes, a thief who has smashed glass and reached in may have set off a motion sensor, the door won't open, and he may flee. You still have smashed glass. If he can't get to item from one window, he may smash another. Don't leave things in plain sight.
When is the last time you heard a car alarm and called 911?
One way to defeat superlock without reprogramming is to cut the superlock wire, then voltage can't be applied to that side of the separate superlock motors in each door. That is the pink with slate (gray) wire on connector C0292 pin 1. That header connector is directly under the steering wheel behind the fascia. See page 358 of 705 in the electrical library of the RAVE for the D2.
It's a Land Rover, not a Brinks truck.
When is the last time you heard a car alarm and called 911?
One way to defeat superlock without reprogramming is to cut the superlock wire, then voltage can't be applied to that side of the separate superlock motors in each door. That is the pink with slate (gray) wire on connector C0292 pin 1. That header connector is directly under the steering wheel behind the fascia. See page 358 of 705 in the electrical library of the RAVE for the D2.
It's a Land Rover, not a Brinks truck.
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