My '99 disco ll would tick loudly after warm up, started intermittently at first than more frequently till it was every time the motor got hot. louder with rpms, exactly opposite of when a lifter would make noise(cold with low rpms).
Well I'm happy to report that after I did the pinning a couple weeks ago I went on a 500 mile round trip camping weekend pulling my 16' travel trailer and she was smooth and quiet the whole time.
I actually thought of doing this but until I saw the post that someone actually already thought of it and did it was awesome!


Thanks for the post and here's to many tick free miles.

 

I did it worked out great form me. Just follow the instructions and don't cut corners. The pass side you can do with the motor still in the drivers side well we had to pull the motor out.

 

I have a 2004 Discovery that started making a ticking noise with the engine warm, never cold. The noise goes away when I accelerate past 1200 RPM. I tried everything I read online, engine flush, oil honey, Marvel's mystery oil, Reslon, synthetic oils, etc. Noise did not go away, some day when the noise was at its loudest, I removed the oil cap to see if the noise was louder inside the valve covers and immediately upon removal of the oil cap I heard a hiss like noise as if the engine was pressurized and the ticking noise stopped on the spot. I tried couple more times and the effect is the same, ticking stops immediately upon release of the apparent pressure when the oil cap is removed.

 

have you checked you PVC system?

 

Great write up and solution to OP!

I have an 03 with the same issue, I think. Have tried all of the "tricks" to no avail.

Here's the question.....anyone think that a super high strength, high temp resistance magnet placed in the same location of the set screws might provide enough resistance to keep the liner in place? I'm talking magnets with a pulling force of up to 36 lbs against plate steel. Of course the magnet would be seperated from the liner by 1/8" or so, but still a fair amount of resistance.

I've ordered the magnets and will try in the next several days.

Thanks for reading, interested in thoughts. The magnet people I've spoken with all indicate the theory is sound, FWIW.

 

OK, I have been meaning to write this now for a while but your comment i read today prompted me to finally write this in the hope that some other poor bugger out there doesn't have to endure what i did or what you have...
Here goes....
First i went through quite a period of much disbelief/denial that a liner could bang up and down and make such a loud hammer rocker/tappet/lifter type noise...So if this is you then just believe it cos that is what the noise is. Don't listen to the Landrover mechanic he doesn't know.
I had this same issue in the cylinder nearest the firewall on the passenger side (RHD) This no doubt was the hottest part of the motor with the worst coolant flow i thought so it made sense that this liner might come loose. I tapped and pinned the liner in situ by dropping the pan & then used a right angled driver on my drill, tapped and loctited a stainless screw(thanks to that bloke who put those pics up and showed where to drill etc etc.). The rattle was cured for a while (2000 Ks or so) till the cylinder beside it started to rattle. So i did the same thing to that liner also (though access was more difficult this time) The noise stopped again...for a while. Then the cylinder next to it started to rattle. Trying to pin that one in situ was impossible...bugger it !!! It really would have felt good at that point to unload and hit the engine with a pick axe.
(I was always of the opinion too that this blutty motor ran too hot. The tunnel in the car would burn your leg on a hot day. I believed all that heat wasn't just from the crappy transmission either.)
Lots of Landrover expletives later i decided to check the temp of the bottom radiator hose when the noise kicked in (only happened when engine was warmed up) The hose was luke warm & unusually cold in my opinion. My diagnosis= bad circulation I checked the radiator to make sure it wasn't blocked. Nope it was fine. What to do... ?

I figured if i could just make it run a bit cooler then these bloody liners might just stay where they were supposed to. You understand i really didn't care about this motor by now. So i decided to smash the inards out of the thermostat first to help the flow. Also (and this is the $2 fix that made the difference) blocked the hose that bypasses the radiator to the thermostat with a PVC pipe bung used for house plumbing. Basically the idea was to force the coolant from the engine to go through the radiator and back to the engine without any restriction. ie to force the cooler water from the bottom of the radiator to circulate in the engine better as the flow was now improved.
You know what ? It blutty worked !!!!
The noise faded in and out a few times on a 10K test drive up the road then it stopped and has never returned. The motor runs noticebly cooler too. Fuel consumption on LPG and Petrol is much the same as it was before and the floor tunnel doesn't get near as hot. A real winner for about $2
If only I'd tried this first up instead of all the work and swearing about Landrover Engineers (and they still deserve it !!!!) & contorting myself drilling and tapping holes to pin the liners. dropping the crossmember, oil pan and removing the heads, exhaust manifolds replacing rockers lifters shafts etc a few times. I swear that Engine is a piece of crap. I mean what kind of retard puts head bolts directly into an alloy block with no steel insert for the thread......i could go on and on and on
Having said all that the thing runs pretty sweet now (for a 4.0l V8 Landrover Thor engine anyway)
So Buddy try ripping the guts out of the thermostat and blocking that top bypass hose first before you try your magnet trick. But i like the way you think

 

did you ever try a TD5 180 degree thermostat?

 

Or an Inline thermostat?

 

Interesting on the removal of the thermostat. I initially worked in that general direction and am running the 180 thermostat meant for the diesel along with water wetter and a 75/25 water to coolant ratio and it hasn't changed the noise. Considering the block temperature has only to reach 175 or so, I fear it would require too low of an operating coolant temp for the engine to run properly, but maybe not?

Still curious what others think would keep a strong magnet placed where the pins would be drilled from keeping the liner in place. The magnets should arrive in a day or so, should be interesting.

Thanks for the replies!

 

Hey Roman67,

Can you explain in more detail exactly how you blocked the bypass hose with that bung? I'd like to try it but can't quite picture what you did.

Thanks!