This is the response to a PM I got about a Freelander that is superlocked, window down, door lock inoperative. The concept applies to any of the superlock systems I believe. The door key connects some wires together, and signals the controller to lock, unlock, or lock superlock mode. If that little switch goes bad, you have issues. In this case I believe you could wiggle into pretzle position and get open the passenger footwell, locate the connector, and short the wires with a jumper to simulate key turning in the lock. Or stick a sraight pin in the insulation and use a small jumper wire.

The schematic shows the lock switch connects earth ground (black - C0441-5) to black & pink (C0441-1) and then to black & red (C0441-3). Now that connector is inside the door, but under the footwell panel it routes through connector C0439. At that point you should be able to get at the black& pink or the black& red and short them to ground momentarily.

An alternative solution would be at the same spot, you could apply 12 volts momentarily between the common and superlock wires. One polarity locks, reverse that polarity to unlock. The superlock wire is brown & pink. The common lock motor wire (not ground) is orange. As all motors are in effect in parallel, it should un-superlock the whole truck.

You can also get to just the common superlock wires at the base of the door pillars for rear doors, same color, brown & pink and the orange wire.

To disable superlock and avoid this super fun, cut the common wire from the controller to the superlock motors, it is brown & pink on connector C0430-pin 3.

I view superlock as a powerful feature that when it goes wonky has the potential to leave SWMBO stranded and quite angry with her road warrior mate who is safe on the 12th floor of the Hilton four time zones away. Most of us with insurance would be happy that someone stole our high miles Rover.......

Any other work arounds would be of interest to many - please add to this thead.

PM that I received:

I work at ********* and I have been stuck with the task of dealing with vehicle that has been towed in. The Key turns freely in the door lock (I cannot feel any resistance). The key fob will blink the running lights but will not unlck the doors. The passenger window is down but the interior locks will not unlock. The door lock button on dash does not respond. AND, fnally, the igntion lock will not turn at all. If you can help, *****

 

Savannah, I've read all the posts I could find on this entire forum regarding superlock issues, since I'm having issues with an '01 Disco SE's LF door actuator. I have owned rovers since 1987 when I bought the 9th RR imported to the U.S., and am not a fan of later gen rovers (a 3rd gen RR left me stranded 3 times plus the later gens feel to me like they're moving too far from the rover heritage) so I'm determined to keep this '01 going at least double its current 154,000 miles – so, I've done all the required and preventive maintenance recommended by you and Disco Mike and others on these forums (these posts make it much easier to dive in, thanks everyone), have remedied the usual head gasket/driveshaft/lock actuator stuff typical for Disco II's plus the belts/hoses/plugs/wires/brakes/waterpump, etc., stuff that any used vehicle requires, and have had as a result no real issues until now with the LF door actuator (have replaced all the others as they needed it with no issue, not that bad a job to do at all following RAVE and advice on this forum - for others reading this, note though that RAVE leaves out mention of one window frame bolt just below the inside mirror mount section, and RAVE also shows an incorrect LF actuator for the DII - the actual actuator has an extended section that houses a receptacle for the doorhandle/key linking pin - just remove the doorhandle retaining bolt to pull the handle assembly out enough to get clearance to place and to guide the linking pin into the receptacle). The new LF actuator had very smooth open and close action with both inside and outside handles and all was fine until I tested the locking with the new actuator (all my prior replacements were used, this one is new) and it stuck in superlock mode (both doorhandles disabled). The other door actuators worked fine with fob and with key, so I could get in, and I fortunately had not yet replaced the inside door panel, so I was able to visualize the actuator and confirm that all the actuator's linkages are moving fine, including the small arm with the green socket that accepts the rod from the "door lock tab." After trying the re-syncing ideas that have been suggested on this forum (lock/unlock 3 times - also 5 times - in succession, remove negative battery terminal for 5 mins, turn ignition key to position II for 5 mins, etc.), I decided to try a variation of a suggestion you made in one of the superlock issue posts, which was to remove the fuses providing power to the door lock and CDL system to prevent a back-flow of current and then apply 12v to the wires supplying the door’s superlock motor (KS wire, pink with slate stripe) and the wire common to the superlock and CDL motor (KP wire, pink with blue stripe), but instead of applying the current from the fusebox/relay/header area, it seemed easier with the door stuck closed to lower the driver’s window and reach in from the outside to where the seven wires running to the door lock actuator run across the door, and separate the wires there, remove a bit of insulation from those two wires and attach two long pieces of wire with alligator clips. I applied 12v to those, reversing polarity to check results, and could hear activity in the door lock but the latch handles still wouldn’t open the door (with the door otherwise “unlocked”). I decided to add to the mix the KR wire that provides power to the other side of the CDL motor lock (pink with orange/red stripe) and three or four attempts reversing polarity back and forth between the KR and KP wires (lots of lock activity noise each time) somehow produced a result and the outside handle worked to open the door. So, the “superlock” state was released without the KS/pink with slate stripe wire being in the mix. Not wanting to risk another lock-out, I decided to leave the CDL fuse, F1, out until I can get to a Rover dealer to change my BCU to disable superlock (its last visit to a dealership was 4 years ago to program a new remote key; I realize now from reading more on the forum that my BCU must have been set at that time to superlock on the first rather than second click of the remote/turn of the key – three blinks and lots of lock motor and linkage noise and superlock disabling of door handles all result with just one click or key-turn) and in the meantime just lock/unlock the driver’s door manually with the key and the other doors manually via the push button to lock and inside handle to unlock . . . and, the driver’s door manually locked/unlocked with the key just fine without any CDL power running to it . . . but then, before finally replacing the inside door panel, I decided to check the manual lock/unlock via key a couple more times . . . worked fine the first time, but the second time, stayed locked with the inside and outside handles once again disabled, just like they would be in superlock. Attempts to repeat the earlier unlocking by jumping the motor supply wires were unsuccessful this time (although, again, lots of lock noise was produced). Finally quit for the evening to think and research some more before trying again. Any ideas how this could be happening without any power being applied to the CDL circuit? It seems to have mechanically superlocked somehow. Any ideas for cure? Am I jumping the correct wires, or is there an error in the color coding on the RAVE Central Door Locking schematic (one error seems to be showing both the KS and the KP wires as pink with slate stripe on the wire runs between header 0292 and each door lock; the KP wire before running into the block is pink with blue stripe, seems it should – and does on the actual rover – retain the same coloring when it runs from there out to the individual door locks).

Thanks again to you and Disco Mike and all the others who post good info and solutions here, sorry my first post is neither!