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Valley Pan Gasket

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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #1  
JoeLena's Avatar
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Default Valley Pan Gasket

So I've had this little drip get worse over the past weeks. Coolant drip, drip, drip from rear of engine that slides along the drivers side bell housing and drips off. I used the coolant pressure tester thing and found a couple other minor leaks, but hard to pinpoint this one no matter what I do, just can't see where it originates. From reading others it most likely is the valley pan gasket, or loose bolts.

But to get to the bolts I have to tear a lot down, right?

In the RAVE I assume I need to do the 30:15:08 lower manifold gasket repair, can someone confirm this? I'm not that mechanically inclined, but usually follow directions pretty well to do things.

I was looking at the Atlantic British site, hoping to find a kit of everything needed, but do not see one. Is there a source for the parts needed? I'd like to get it all in advance if I can.

Any pointers on getting what I need sorted out would be appreciated. I have read a few posts that have some good info.

It's a 2004 S model if it matters. Have had the heads done (PO) and nothing else points to a head gasket. UltraGauge always at 194 degrees, oil looks good, etc., so hoping it is the valley pan.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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tuercas viejas's Avatar
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Hola

The valley gasket seals two coolant ports into the manifold at the rear. The most likely source of your leak, other than perhaps coolant leaks from the back of the head where the coolant jacket is sealed. The head gasket is very thin at both ends being only about 1/4 wide. So bear that in mind. So too the plenum feed hose seen behind the A/C compressor feeding coolant to the plenum. When it leaks you get similar symptoms

You can get a kit of parts from A/B in Albany or loose items from Car Quest and their Worldpac suppliers.
I suggest you order a valley gasket, two end strips (seals) and two valve cover gaskets since you will have to lift the covers up to pull the manifold.

Beneficial will be a plenum gasket (also known as an egg crate gasket) and a plenum heater kit (buy from the dealer the aftermarket kits don't last)
Be mindfull that the plastic line running from the plenum heater to the expansion tank is often very brittle and often needs a new one; so too the dog leg rubber hose manifold to plenum heater port. So too the line radiator to expansion tank

If you elect to change the plug wires, STI make some very credible replacements (get from Car Quest / Worldpac) and if you are going to treat the engine to new plugs then it has to be Denso double platinums (4405's I think) In my opinion the best!

You can do most with simple hand tools but a torque wrench is beneficial for the manifold which should have all the bolts finger started and pulled down evenly to avoid distortion. I lightly coat them in anti seize compound as they are run into the head.
Use silicon sealant on the end strips I use the right stuff in a cheese wizz can, pull the fixing strip down first.
Hope that helps you.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 08:00 AM
  #3  
Savannah Buzz's Avatar
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Please be real sure about torques and bolts fitting cleanly. Easier to strip than you might think. Ditto for center bolt in each end seal.

This will also be one time when the fuel pressure test fitting is easier to access, borrow a fuel pressure gauge and test that while walking by.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 06:37 AM
  #4  
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Thanks so much guys! That is exactly what I was looking for, I feel confident I can work it out. Have all the tools and will torque to the specs in RAVE.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 08:16 AM
  #5  
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Unless you possess skills I don't have, also have a magnet ready to grab the bolts at the front and back of the upper intake and the top bolts for the coils. It can also be used to gently start the front bolt, which is a booger to reach.

Also, I would and did buy a box of hose clamps in various small sizes and replaced the Rover hose clamps everywhere I found them. Up to you.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 08:30 AM
  #6  
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I'll pickup a magnet, thanks for the tip.

I've been replacing those Rover clamps along the way and will do any I missed as well, I really dislike those things.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeLena
I'll pickup a magnet, thanks for the tip.

I've been replacing those Rover clamps along the way and will do any I missed as well, I really dislike those things.
The clamp is a quick fit style introduced by Aeroquip and is fairly universal across the MV industry. There is in fact a special tool to re-clamp it after release. In fact works quite well when new.

A better clamp (if you take the time to search for them) is the full wrap around originally introduced by Glemo of Germany. You can find them at 'O Reilly's of all places.

Don't forget to search through you tool box to see if you have a slim 12 point 8mm (5/16 a/f ) 1/4 drive socket etc--This is essential for removing the valve cover retaining bolts. Without it you will be struggling to remove them.
T/V
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 07:03 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by tuercas viejas
Don't forget to search through you tool box to see if you have a slim 12 point 8mm (5/16 a/f ) 1/4 drive socket etc--This is essential for removing the valve cover retaining bolts. Without it you will be struggling to remove them.
T/V
Ordered that some time ago to tighten them down, thanks!
 
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