I did use a puck in the corner of the oil pan and it lifted fine.

When I changed this mount on my S80 I use a 4" x 6" wood block under the oil pan.

The wood block will spread the load over more of the oil pan.

That's how I am doing it now.

You only need to support the weight, and lift it maybe 1"

One last thought mark the location of the bolt that connect the engine to the mounts.

Use a sharpie and draw a circle around the washer for the bolt at the bottom of this picture (be fore you loosen it)



And mark the location for the bolt in the slot using a sharpie also (you will need to transfer this mark to the new torque rod)



Good luck

Paul

 

I found it in the LR service manual while looking for something else. They call it the "Engine Upper Support Insulator".

 

<groan> And they couldn't be bothered to use the same name as the one attached to the part number... Dweebs.

 

You just don't speak British.

 

My wife says I am schizoid. Doesn't help.

 

This has been a month in the making. Deciding how much to do and waiting for parts to arrive.

As I indicated previously, this thread alerted me to the fact that my Torque Rod had tears in the rubber. I ordered a new one: LR000597, aftermarket Febi brand from RMeuropean. Other members on this forum advised that the upper engine mount just below the Torque Rod may have also failed. Following a tip on a Volvo forum for the same engine, I looked under the mounting bracket and notice the bracket was sitting directly on the engine mount case. It's supposed to be sitting on the stem which protrudes from the center of the engine mount. The stem had bottomed out which is the failure scenario for this part. Attached are photos showing where I looked and the before and after photos. To get a visual, I stuck a USB borescope under the bracket and took these photos. It's connected to my Android tablet and uses the free CameraFi app. If you don't have a USB borescope (every DIYer should), you can just stick your cell phone under there and take a photo.

Now that I confirmed the upper engine mount is faulty, I ordered one of those as well: LR021634, OEM from Miami British via Amazon. Additionally, I ordered new bolts that are used with this mount: 3 x FB112166 and 1 x LR000042 from LRDirect in the UK (I could not find a domestic USA supplier). These bolts have the highest stress on them, the LR service manual advises to replace them when reinstalled, and I figured if I'm saving hundreds of dollars in labor that I would splurge for new bolts. But I'm sure the old bolts are reused most of the time and that's fine.

There are several examples of this project in the Volvo forums and on Youtube. I won't repeat all those steps and instructions here, but I'll share these notes:

- Hit the bolts with some penetrating oil at least an hour before you attempt to remove them. Also, there is a small clip that holds the coolant bottle in place ... put some penetrating oil on that clip as well and it will slip off without argument. I used a 2-foot breaker bar to loosen all the bolts and had no problems. This may be challenging if you're using a small bicycle wrench, so get a beefy breaker bar.

- The engine needs to be initially supported, and later lifted. I was worried that I might crush the aluminum oil pan like a soda can but I had no problems. I used a scrap piece of wood sized 2x6x23. The length of 23" was just right and I positioned it under the back edge of the pan and it overhanged on both sides of the pan so it would press against the walls of the pan and not the weaker underbelly. Any longer and it would have hit undercarriage parts on either side of the pan. I placed a layer of scrap rubber between the wood and the pan. I used rubber gasket sheeting, but you can cut off a slice of an old rubber doormat, or not use anything at all if you think the wood is soft enough not to cause any damage (I was paranoid). When I replaced the mounting bracket, I had to raise the jack (engine) until the bracket was flush with the mating surface of the engine and the bolts threaded in straight. You raise it a little, then check above, then repeat as needed.

- To get the coolant bottle out of the way, I just removed the 10mm hold down screw and lifted it out of the way. Others have removed the connections from the bottle and got it even further out of the way which would make the rest of the job easier. But I figured anything I disconnect and reconnect is another opportunity to break something, so I just maneuvered around it. I used a ratcheting box end wrench which requires minimal working space. I'm not sure if I would have had enough space with a socket wrench.

- When reattaching the mounting bracket, insert the 18mm bolt in the engine mount first. You may have to move the engine forward to get the holes to line up. I discovered I could just pull the engine forward by hand to get it aligned (aluminum engines really are lighter). This is a lot easier if you have a helper, though I did it by myself.

- When reattaching the Torque Rod, I found it easier to insert the rear (smaller) bolt first, and then the front (longer) bolt. Some of the videos show the use of a pry bar and straps to get things aligned, but anyone of average strength can just pull it into place by hand.

- I torqued the bolts (clean and dry). Here are the torque values I found. Please confirm these values yourself before torquing. Note that the sizes I am listing are the head size for your wrench/socket, not the thread diameter size that is shown in the service manual.
>> Mount, 3 x 15mm, 59 ft-lbs
>> Bracket, 3 x 15mm, 1 x 18mm, 59 ft-lbs / 1 x 15mm NUT, 33 ft-lbs
>> Torque Rod, 2 x 15mm, 81 ft-lbs

My test drive following this repair was joyful. The vibration noise is gone and the driving experience is much better. I've got my good 'ol car back.

I would not have been able to tackle this without the support from the members on this forum. Thank you all!