Heating and Air Conditioning issues. I have an issue with my HVAC system in my 2006 Range Rover Sport. The lower left side (driver’s side) actuator seems to be out of sync. The motion of the actuator motor does not seem to correlate with the blend door open/close motion. For example, the blend door seems to move from 6 o’clock to 9 o’clock. The Motor wants to move from 3 o’clock to 6 o’clock.



I got an assortment of actuator motors out of a wreck along with a few others. I plugged them all in and was hoping that one would move in sync with the blend door shaft that opens and closes the blend door. No such luck.

I then tried to start the calibration process by holding the recirc button and the econ button at the same time when turning the key to the ready position. When I plugged the motors in, they seemed to run a calibration process, some switching forwards and backwards, some rotating a 360, etc. None of them seemed to correlate with the blend door shaft and the fixed positions that the blend door will operate.

Does the calibration process sense the limits of the blend door and adjust the motor to operate within the range that the blend door will move?

Any help is appreciated. Currently the lower actuator is plugged in but not screwed in and mounted to the hvac box. When I want heat, I manually reach down and move the tab on the blend door and push it forward. As long as the fan is at three lights or more, the suction of the fan keeps the blend door with the tab pointing to the forward position. If I turn off the fan or adjust it to two lights or less, there isn’t enough vacuum and the blend door defaults back to closed or open, not sure, but the tab points down.



Thanks Phil

 

I note you used the word Vacuum in the last sentence - did you mean air flow? I ask as to my knowledge, the operation of the heater motors is all electric.

Not that it will help you much, but as you know, there are a total of four motors, and each is a different part number and hence I suppose different.
Also apparently all four have to be connected up for the system, (and in the correct location) to configure itself out, and then reset itself per that two button technique.

Below lists five part numbers, as one part number is for LHD and the other RHD.
The other numbers do not seem to care where the steering wheel is but it may be that the motors you did not remove are not installed in the correct locations and hence the ongoing problem.
The motors may or may not look similar, but as below, all have different part numbers; hence they have to go into the correct locations - might add that first glance, all the stepper motors look pretty much the same except for part numbers - hence it take care to get them all in the correct locations.

Incidentally, I have never seen any LEDs flash when I have done the calibration procedure - maybe all is perfect in my heater unit but I felt that on occasion, the operation improved.

(19E616A) Recirculation
JNC500010, now new part number JNC500040 for LHD
JNC500020, now new part number JNC500050 for RHD;

Re the following 3 motors, where the steering wheel is does not seem to matter.

(19E616B) Defrost Stepper JWO500010, now new part number LR041271
(19E616C) Footwell Stepper JWO500020, now new part number LR041272
(19E616D) Air Mix Blend JWO500030, now new part number LR041273

 

I am stumped, not sure where to go from here. I talked to one of the techs at the local LR dealership. He told me that they might have to reflash the hvac software. Phil

 

Before you pay someone to reflash software - not my idea of fun, you might try what is called a hard reset. This costs nothing; is a stand up clean hands task and takes maybe a half hour.

It does not harm anything and often solves problems. Basically, one is draining all the capacitors in the computers and forcing a reload of all software, the HVAC included.

I often have to do the hard reset after a battery change out to get the radio going again. My view is that the Land Rover software get tangled up but not erased or corrupted, much as it does in a laptop or desktop; this is the same as pulling the battery in the laptop or pulling the plug on a desktop - if forces a reload of the software. I doubt your actual HVAC software is corrupted; only what I call tangled up.

Note you are disconnecting both the positive and negative leads from the battery and joining the battery leads together - not back to the battery.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard-reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the driver’s door window rolled down and the key in one’s pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Have your car keys in your pocket.

Also, when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.) I have the Traxide dual battery system installed.

Connect the negative cable end to the positive cable end. (NOT the battery.)

To do this, you will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to be able to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, (suggest at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights and the radio when turned on plays music rather than being silent.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup. Then do the heater calibration procedure a couple of times - might just work - the LR computers are always a bit of a mystery.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.
http://bit.ly/14WXXR1DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hard Reset

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
http://www.disco3club.co.uk/phpbb/vi...hp?f=67&t=3374

 

Thanks BByer, I will try that. It would be nice to have these two last electronic issues fixed on this truck. The HVAC issue and the headlight issue. My headlights are the articulating type, but they are fixed and crossed. They are throwing a fault code that there is a ground fault, but tracking down bad grounds is not my strong suit........

 

You will be surprised how many faults a hard reset will fix.

Why after a battery change, I often get a Christmas tree on the dash and a radio that doe not radio (blue tooth works however), I do not know.

I try to make certain all has gone to sleep before I disconnect a battery but it maybe with the bonnet open, it truly will not go to sleep and hence it is like one pulled the plug on a working desktop.

The thing to remember is that the 3 is a mobile computer first, and a 4x4 secondly.

Re the headlights, generally you have to disbelieve all fault codes but a ground problem is very possible.

I replaced my battery negative to frame cable, (about a foot long it is), as it can go bad internally and you cannot tell from looking. While you have the battery disconnected, you might clean the posts and also undo the battery ground cable to frame bolt, inspect and clean the bolt and reinstall - relatively easy to do and costs only time.

Below is a link to a number of files re various concerns that I have collected over the years. I think there is a bit on the xenon headlights as well; mine do not articulate with the steering - they are the fixed aiming xenon type however and have been trouble free over the years - on my third pair of 4300K xenon bulbs now but that is all.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer

 

Hello fellow Rover Genius,
Does this instructions below works on the range rover sport 2012?
It would be good to know before atempting to hard reset the HVAC computer and not mess anything up.
At the present moment the HVAC recirculation/fresh air in damper motor is not working, i can see the door is fully open and not moving when i press the recirc button on the dash with the pollen filter is removed from the housing.
The fault code from the scanner is: B1083 , fault code vmd_dtc_00003.rex
Please advise when possible.
Thanks in advance.

 

Hello fellow Rover Genius,
Does this instructions below works on the range rover sport 2012?
It would be good to know before atempting to hard reset the HVAC computer and not mess anything up.
At the present moment the HVAC recirculation/fresh air in damper motor is not working, i can see the door is fully open and not moving when i press the recirc button on the dash with the pollen filter is removed from the housing.
The fault code from the scanner is: B1083 , fault code vmd_dtc_00003.rex
Please advise when possible.
Thanks in advance.