My 2006 LR3 is at a body shop. Someone backed into the rear door and they replaced it. The shop called and said the air suspension was down and said the red suspension fault light was on.

I have a Gap tool and Nanocom.

I used both and was able to clear the fault, could hear the pump come on for a 2-3 second and then turn off and the red suspension fault comes back on.

I forgot to take a screen shot of the error codes using the Gap tool...it was telling me faults for all four corners....some type of not getting electrical reading.

Using the Nanocom:
I was able to see electric signals for all for all four ride height sensors

I was not able to get any readings from the valves


I did check the 2 fuzes under the hood and they were good. I did not check or have a replacement relay to swap in.

Any thoughts or ideas?

Thanks

 

Have lift rods installed?

 

Yes I do

 

That is why I hate rods. Sounds like the vehicle is so low the sensors are out of range because of them. Just jack the front and rear up a few inches or so. That way the sensors are back in range and it will work fine:

 

Thank you DakotaTravler.

This solved the issue.

Notes on this, may help someone else in the future.

My LR3 was on a slop. I tried to jack up just the front, just to bring it from from bottoming out to about access mode (this end of the vehicle was higher on the slope than the rear.) But this don't work. With the front still jacked up I raised up the rear. After it was raised slightly the pump kicked on and all was good.

I did not need to clear the fault, the read warning light went off automatically.


For reference: I had purchased the lift rods before I upgraded my Nanocom and bought the GAP tool. I had it in my things to do to re-install the factory rods and use the GAP tool to adjust the height settings. I just never got around to doing it.

 

Glad it was an easy issue. The rear always goes up first, so if you have just one jack start at the rear and it may go up a couple inches before it starts on the front but it may be enough to keep the rear in sensor range. What you had happen is really common with rods and why I am not a fan, especially for trail use. Yes, they are cheap way to lift but a GAP lift is best since the sensors will never be physically put out of range.