This video is a good explanation:

 

Thank you, I’ll check it out.

 

Alrighty, after a lot of educational videos, jumpering has been done. The spot where the relay plugs into the block does not activate the compressor. At this point is it safe to say the issue is the compressor or is there more testing I should do before ordering a replacement?

 

If jumping the relay does not activate the compressor, then the compressor is dead, disconnected or has a wiring issue. So next step would be to locate the compressor plug, just forward of it, and verify you are getting 12 volts there. Keep in mind if there is a wiring issue you can rear 12 volts, but the bad wire may not be able to take an actual load. But really, if you get 12v there then you are likely okay and simply looking at a bad compressor.

 

Back probing this connector while the relay is jumped will allow reading the voltage with load on the wire, thereby confirming bad wiring or compressor.

 

Seattle, will it work the same for probing if I plug the relay back in?

 

The problem with that is that the computer module controlling EAS will switch off the relay once it detects a problem, so you may not be able to get a reading in time.

I would setup the DMM then jump the relay and check it. You don’t want to leave it jumped for too long because if it is a wiring problem, like a frayed cable, there will be a lot of heat generated at the source of the wiring issue.

 

Unfortunately I’ve reached the limit on how long this car can be down, and the limit on what I can justify spending on continued suspensions repairs.

Going with one of the coil conversions. Looking at the Atlantic British 2” kit. Other than “don’t do it”, any info I should know about regarding a particular kit or the conversion process?