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Key Blade broken

Old Jul 26, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #11  
Zelatore's Avatar
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From: NorCal
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Glad you got it sorted with no real failures. Annoying, but not so bad in the big picture.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #12  
cmb6s's Avatar
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From: Herndon, VA
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Originally Posted by delormea397
Abran, I greatly appreciate the offer. I'm in Canada though...
I have CAA, so I got a "free" tow to my local independant LR shop and had it programmed. This solved the problem. It seems that even though I had the old key held close enough and in the right position, it was so low on battery that it would not disable the immobolizer. The red alarm light stayed flashing regardless.

I was under the impression the immobolizer would still allow the engine to turn over momentarily. To anyone reading this in the future, that is not the case. My relay clicked but nothing else happened.
Good information. Thanks. So, what you're saying is that you can get stranded in the middle of nowhere with no hope of starting your car simply due to the fact that your key battery gives up the ghost? Nice...
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #13  
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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Not really sure how the key battery got into the equation.

When people drive their car to me I have a signal receiver tool to confirm that their battery is indeed dead as its not transmitting a signal instead of a vehicle problem. Then I swap the battery.

I even had a guy come and I butchered his circuit board so bad that I was not able to solder a new battery to it but the immobilizer chip still worked.

My point is, until proven otherwise I believe the immobilizer chip works independent of the remote battery.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 10:17 AM
  #14  
houm_wa's Avatar
Camel Trophy
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From: North of Seattle
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I agree. I had a FOB lose its battery and would not unlock the doors....but it would still start the car.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #15  
cmb6s's Avatar
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From: Herndon, VA
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Originally Posted by abran
Not really sure how the key battery got into the equation.

When people drive their car to me I have a signal receiver tool to confirm that their battery is indeed dead as its not transmitting a signal instead of a vehicle problem. Then I swap the battery.

I even had a guy come and I butchered his circuit board so bad that I was not able to solder a new battery to it but the immobilizer chip still worked.

My point is, until proven otherwise I believe the immobilizer chip works independent of the remote battery.
Ah... we're talking car battery here? I was under the impression that it may have been low, but certainly not completely dead. That makes a lot more sense though...
 
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