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Lr3 hard brake pedal

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Old Feb 9, 2018 | 05:21 PM
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Default Lr3 hard brake pedal

Hey guys,

Brand new to the LR3 world I bought an 06 LR3 se back in December. Had a good stack of records in the glove box and a lot of info on the car fax so I drove her home.

In the past couple weeks I've noticed the brake pedal getting harder to press. Today I came to a light and had to press as hard as possible to get the rover to stop soon enough. I've searched Google and these forums only to find info on d2's or older that didnt help. I seen some people say the servo can get full of oil but I've not figured out how to check that. Any suggestions where to start?

So far, I've checked the vacuum lines for oil and removed the front calipers to make sure they press in smoothly.

I also jacked the front off the ground and when trying to turn the wheels it feels like the brakes are holding tight( not sure if this is a good test since we are AWD).

That's all I can think of right now to tell you guys. Thanks for any input
 
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 03:09 PM
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Full brake bleed including abs done via my iid tool.

I started to investigate the booster lines and the small pump connected to it. I unhooked the vacuum line and the brakes were hard as a rock. Hooked the line back up and they got soft(normal feeling) for a few pumps then back to hard.

From what I have searched, the small electric pump is critical in providing enough vacuum on the booster (please correct me if I'm wrong). It seems to me the small pump has possibly intermittently failed. Is there a way to test its operation?
 
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 01:46 PM
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Note: Just drove on the highway for about 2 miles and started getting a big vibration. Pulled over to see the front rotors boiling hot. Rear is normal. Calipers are a couple months old and move freely. It's only the front holding pressure.

Side note: still lost. Jesus help me.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 03:54 PM
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-Front calipers are holding pressure

-I can't locate a proportioning valve for the brakes so I can only assume this is controlled through the abs block on LR3s.

-If I jack the front wheels up and crack the bleeder valves the calipers release and there is less resistance turning the wheels by hand.

-I am wanting to blame the master cylinder. I've not personally seen it happen, but I have a hunch it's not relieving pressure from the front calipers when the brake pedal is released.

Not a no one has any input I guess so I'll keep this updated as I start to sling parts and destroy my bank account.
 

Last edited by kevinb91; Feb 11, 2018 at 03:56 PM.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 05:25 PM
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New master cylinder ordered. In the mean time......

Rusty/dirty parts hurt my heart but maybe Im on to something.

Going to try and break down this master and give the internals a good look. Snap ring looks specially made not to remove (makes sense) so not sure how this will go.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 05:42 PM
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Vacuum pump tested and working. 2 wire (red positive, white ground) . Put power straight to it from battery.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 06:03 PM
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Sorry to hear about the issues you are having. Probably not too common, hence the lack or responses. I have nothing to add, but will be watching your updates. New master cylinder may be in order. Wonder if the pads and rotors are completely glazed over now....pistons may not be retracting due to corrosion and generating lots of heat and fluid expansion.
Good luck!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 07:23 PM
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Rotors and pads were brand new and now junk Im sure. I'll be replacing those (again) after I solve this.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2018 | 07:34 PM
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Last update:

I replaced the master cylinder, full abs bleed through iid tool. Then bled calipers. I've not had any issues since. Looks like master cylinder replacement solved this one.
 
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