My LR3 stinks! Water inside.
#21
The problem with petroleum products on tings like rubber and such is that things will degrade. This is why getting grease on rubber parts is not advisable unless its been formulated to be tolerant, like ball joint boots. And if one uses a push connect with a petroleum products, the o-rings inside the fitting will fail. If you need a lubricant, use silicone. Those little silicone grease containers used plumbing are perfect. Use on faucets so, again, the rubber does not degrade resulting in a leak.
That JCB box is indeed a nightmare. I think I reinstalled the rear connectors at least three times before the truck finally operated correctly.
That JCB box is indeed a nightmare. I think I reinstalled the rear connectors at least three times before the truck finally operated correctly.
#22
End of the story: no blockage, rotted 90 degree connector on the passenger side as most suggested. I will check the driver’s side later when I get some more time. Pulled the inner wheel well plastic, but couldn’t get see the rubber 90 because of my snorkel tube, so I pulled the BCM. Replaced trim and cowl anyway. Still a little damp inside several days later.
I picked up some 3/8 ID tubing, a couple of hose clamps and a brass connector. Took about 10 minutes to pull the body control module, 15 to install 4 inches of tubing to the existing hose and about 20 minutes to put it all back together. Got lucky as all of the connectors seated properly. I noticed one of the back connectors wasn’t completely locked. Mechanic at the dealer got a little sloppy.
I just slid the longer tube through the hole and into the inner fender. I could not find any good 90 degree couplers at Home Depot. I don’t think the tubing will get cut as there shouldn’t be too much movement. Of course, not sure why the original part disintegrated. The interior and end was very gooey! Maybe they use a petroleum product to aid insertion!
I picked up some 3/8 ID tubing, a couple of hose clamps and a brass connector. Took about 10 minutes to pull the body control module, 15 to install 4 inches of tubing to the existing hose and about 20 minutes to put it all back together. Got lucky as all of the connectors seated properly. I noticed one of the back connectors wasn’t completely locked. Mechanic at the dealer got a little sloppy.
I just slid the longer tube through the hole and into the inner fender. I could not find any good 90 degree couplers at Home Depot. I don’t think the tubing will get cut as there shouldn’t be too much movement. Of course, not sure why the original part disintegrated. The interior and end was very gooey! Maybe they use a petroleum product to aid insertion!
Last edited by Geo; 12-10-2018 at 12:45 AM.
#23
It rots because it gets clogged and degrades from holding water. Of course once it rots apart, it can no longer clog! The driver side is easy to access and view. Probably the same condition. You might want to check the rears, but I found mine were fine. I replaced the ends anyway and now I have two original ends as spares.
#24
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