So the LR3 showed symptoms very similar to when the abs wheel speed sensor is bad. So I changed it. I got the part from autozone and I come to find out that it wasn’t the correct part by when I ordered a new one from Atlantic British and it worked. Sort of.

It didn’t have the check engine light on, like an abs wheel speed sensor does, so I think it was just not manufactured quite to spec. And a lot of sensors get built bad these days (not just LR).

I swapped the sensor, and now the EAS light turned off. Success. Yet these lights persist:

-traction control light on in yellow
-blinking active headlights button in yellow
-yellow brake light
-message: HDC fault system unavailable
-message: check pressure of all tires
-message: special programs off

now, I have a few theories as to what this could be, but please point me in the right direction.

I think that with the tire pressure light on, and actually having a tire at 10psi, right now due to a broken bead, the tire is really low. I think it could be the suspension ride height sesnor working correctly. But I am not sure. If the ride height sensor is down too low cuz of the tire being super flat, it would make a lot of sense.

theory 2, I have a condition where when I press my brakes, the pedal goes to the floor without much resistance. The brakes work but barely at all. I just changed the brake shoe, pads, rotor, CV half shaft axle piece, and the wheel bearing of the front left wheel. I asked a shop to bleed the brakes for me, which I believe needs to be done. They said it wouldn’t make much sense if I needed to change the head gasket (because fails the head gasket test - another story). Might it just need to have the brakes bled and then these error messages might go away? I’m not sure if there are like brake fluid pressure sensors or something causing these faults, and therefore working as designed? Not check engine light tho. So I don’t have a clue.

the other issue is that I may have a problem with the parking brake. I’m not really sure, but sometimes I’m driving a long and it feels like the parking brake is trying to engage and the vehicle slightly brakes. Could this be an error? Actually, the parking brake drags all of the time now (I think)? Parking brake light is NOT on, that’s simply me having it set. I can hear it set and remove.

 

@DakotaTravler

 

Tire pressure system is independent so its its own fault. Having one tire low will not be enough to throw the system that far out of whack to cause EAS to fail. And keep in mind that the tire itself has no bearing on the relative height of the sensor to the control arm. If anything it will cause its diagonal tire (rear) to raise a little too. So things are not totally out of skew, no more than taking it off-road on uneven terrain.

Bleed your brakes. Period.

All brake repair work should really been done after browsing this awesome guide. In particular, the rear shoes MUST be adjust correctly even if they are not related but other brake work is done. The system uses a constantly active system to keep a certain tension on the parking brake, so if they are out of adjustment they could be dragging I suppose. You can pull the fuse for the parking brake system and see if anything is different. But if your really suspect they are dragging you want to adjust them asap.
https://disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/...le_V1.4sml.pdf

So now for the air-ride, there is no fault so I dont think its causing an issue. I suspect the first obvious potential cause which can be the brake switch itself. Easy to replace (MUST FOLLOW PROCEDURE) and not expensive, a Ford one can do just fine (search, lots of threads on this bugger). It may also been your steering angle sensor being out of calibration. I cant be 100% sure but I would think if its really far out that your adaptive headlights would fault like they have. Also if the steering sensor is out of calibration it could affect the terrain system since it depends on the sensor for input. But there can be several other reasons to have the HDC fault and really getting Rover codes can help a lot and avoid bling guessing and tossing parts on it.

 

1. Fix all the **** you know is ****ed up.
2. Get a GAP tool and read the codes.
3. Troubleshoot what's left.

Note: last time I had a suspension fault and an adaptive headlight fault together, the suspension wiring had been ruptured (driver's side front wheel well). Does the 4x4 display show anything wonky?

 

would the steering angle sensor really fault form changing the cv joint? I didn’t really need to move it a ton. I just disconnected the steering tie rod and then reconnected it back in the same place after I replaced all of the other parts.

what is the brake switch normal functionality?

 

@DakotaTravler

 

The forum notifies when people reply, no need to tag in another comment since that actually does noting at all.

The sensor needs to be checked. Working on it would not really affect it but an alignment can. Still best to double check it and rule it out, need the live data for it to do so.

The brake switch is made of unicorn parts and magic or something. Seems when the switch fails it can cause all sorts of issues. Sorta like when a rear brake light goes out. Since you have a soft pedal maybe the switch was old and worn and failed from the extra abuse? Again, with no codes its a guess.

So... codes really... need em. Usually they help, sometimes they just add confusion.