That doesn't make much sense. The brake light switch should have no bearing on a single bulb's operation. I would replace the bulb that has been on and off, as it might be an intermittent short (and it's easy). I'd also check the tail light bulbs in the same cluster (bottom position). It could be one of them shorting. Even the tail lights have dual filaments, even though they are not used. If yours don't, there's your problem.)

I assume your lights were on when the faults came back?

Could be completely unrelated to brakes/brake lights as well, but start with easiest first.

 

last update: I replaced each brake light, turn signal light, reverse fog light and narrowed the problem down to one bulb. All issues resolved. Thank you

 

Amazing how such a little thing can cause so much trouble. Glad you tracked it down. Do you know which bulb it was? Curious if other bulbs beyond the brake lights can cause issues as well.

 

driver side top brake light. I too can't believe a single $20 light bulb essentially caused my entire vehicle to non-operate. Crazy

 

Welcome to the wacky world of Land Rover... the best vehicle you'll ever own and the one you'll wish you had never met.

 

I never would have imagined that tires on the front of the vehicle would impact the transmission shifting! I am getting a new set of tires on the truck. I am trying to milk another month or two out of the set that is on the truck now. I threw on a tire and rim on the left front to get my by until I change all four tires. I did that about three weeks ago. I noticed that when getting up to freeway speed that the truck wasn't shifting up into 4th gear, it seemed to hang on to 3rd. It had never done that before. If I shift it over to m mode and then back, it shift up to 4th and all is good. I was doing a little research today on the Forum regarding rear brake pads. I came across this thread and I can't believe it. My truck is doing exactly what these others seem to be doing. I will swap out the tires and see if it makes a difference. Who would have thought! Gotta love the British engineering.......

Phil

2005 LR3
2006 Range Rover Sport

 

Not a British thing... as most (if not all) all wheel drive systems are pretty picky about all 4 tires being within a tight tolerance for size. I had an 97 Grand Cherokee with Jeeps Quadra track system and I made the mistake of picking up two replacement tires that "looked" to have the same amount of wear. I thought the transfer case was going to come out of it the noise was so bad.

 

I am clearly aware that this is a rather old thread, but has been deeply resourceful for me as I tended to my intermitent/sluggish transmission shifting after coming to a stop. I read through the various possibilities, and went over the history of maintenance actions that I had done. I own a 2006 LR3 SE, and changed out the transmission fluid, valve seals and converted the transmission pan about two years ago. Things had been awesome until a friend used my vehicle and I realized that it was sluggish coming from stops or slow downs. Fast forwarding, I made a list of possibilities from this thread, and decided to drive in manual mode, since there was a lot of support for improved shifting. Walah!! Things certainly had improved and I felt the added responsibility of shifting as a sporting activity, until I noticed a couple transmission error codes. It then became clear that manual mode was not an option to avoid this issue. I did have a very distinct observation while I was in manual mode, and that was when I pressed on the brake ever so slightly, it seemed to activate an error within the transmission (while in manual mode). This triggered my thinking to place all my investigations to the braking system.
I quickly remembered that I did in fact by a set of Brake Sensor Switches from Amazon (non-oem), and that could very well be the culprit. I found the original Brake Sensor Switch and placed it back in the vehicle, and things have been working fairly good ever since. It has been about three weeks, and I have decided to purchase some OEM Brake Sensor Switches ( I have to LR3's) to remedy this issue.
My thouth is that the cheap non-oem part had worn out fairly rapidly or was sending defective signals to the ECU. I hope this helps anyone on the search for a plausible remedy as I was.

 

Do you mean the brake switch that activates on the pedal or something else ?