What did you do to your LR3 today?
#441
#442
Thanks & Yep - I got lucky and bought this one built... right after he built it too (something about a wife and another truck showing up, dunno.. ) pretty much everything Lucky8. Its actually my 3rd LR3 all of them Bonita Grey.. I am going to one day change the rack out though, to frontrunner or back to a K9 like my last truck.. the side rails and design make the Baja a bit limited in functionality for my uses.
#443
#444
Today on my LR3:
Stripped out the front seats and cleaned all the carpets.
Repaired the splice for my remote locking.
Replaced the battery and case for my key fob.
Replaced the rear left door lock actuator.
Repaired the cubby cooler.
Replaced EGR valve.
Replaced MAF sensor.
Sealed leaky brake booster hose.
Tomorrow is:
Replace water pump gasket
Replace coolant tank
Replace thermostat housing/coolant temp sensor (code P0116)
Replace valve solenoid oil seals
Repair dead rear wiper
Investigate broken drivers seat heater
Investigate Banks 1 and 2 running lean and throwing check engine lights. (codes P0171, P0174, hopefully fixing the coolant temp sensor will assist on this one).
Decide how to repair or replace the transmission. (Code P0740 and P0731)
Investigate source of water in front passenger footwell.
Other than that, and a few other things, the car is perfect. ;-)
Stripped out the front seats and cleaned all the carpets.
Repaired the splice for my remote locking.
Replaced the battery and case for my key fob.
Replaced the rear left door lock actuator.
Repaired the cubby cooler.
Replaced EGR valve.
Replaced MAF sensor.
Sealed leaky brake booster hose.
Tomorrow is:
Replace water pump gasket
Replace coolant tank
Replace thermostat housing/coolant temp sensor (code P0116)
Replace valve solenoid oil seals
Repair dead rear wiper
Investigate broken drivers seat heater
Investigate Banks 1 and 2 running lean and throwing check engine lights. (codes P0171, P0174, hopefully fixing the coolant temp sensor will assist on this one).
Decide how to repair or replace the transmission. (Code P0740 and P0731)
Investigate source of water in front passenger footwell.
Other than that, and a few other things, the car is perfect. ;-)
Last edited by spawnywhippet; 12-08-2017 at 04:20 PM.
#445
#446
#447
#448
I had new rotors brakes and alternator installed. Got parts from Atlantic British.
I had been driving for 2 years on my alternator that only put out 13.2 volts.
On occasion it would jump to 13.8v (then my check battey light would turn off) But mostly it was 13.2.
As long as I did not use my electric seats I was ok.
It would basically shut the motor down to barely running, like almost stalling with electric seats running for too long.
With the new 150amp alternator my voltage is at 14.7 and all the dash idiot lights are off.
Could be in my head but the truck seems to run smoother with the new alternator, could this be?
I had been driving for 2 years on my alternator that only put out 13.2 volts.
On occasion it would jump to 13.8v (then my check battey light would turn off) But mostly it was 13.2.
As long as I did not use my electric seats I was ok.
It would basically shut the motor down to barely running, like almost stalling with electric seats running for too long.
With the new 150amp alternator my voltage is at 14.7 and all the dash idiot lights are off.
Could be in my head but the truck seems to run smoother with the new alternator, could this be?
#449
#450
Computers need near 14 volts.
I had been driving for 2 years on my alternator that only put out 13.2 volts.
On occasion it would jump to 13.8v (then my check battey light would turn off) But mostly it was 13.2.
As long as I did not use my electric seats I was ok.
It would basically shut the motor down to barely running, like almost stalling with electric seats running for too long.
With the new 150amp alternator my voltage is at 14.7 and all the dash idiot lights are off.
Could be in my head but the truck seems to run smoother with the new alternator, could this be?
On occasion it would jump to 13.8v (then my check battey light would turn off) But mostly it was 13.2.
As long as I did not use my electric seats I was ok.
It would basically shut the motor down to barely running, like almost stalling with electric seats running for too long.
With the new 150amp alternator my voltage is at 14.7 and all the dash idiot lights are off.
Could be in my head but the truck seems to run smoother with the new alternator, could this be?
The engine etc, can get by with 13 volts but the computers, while they run on 5VDC, need near 14 volts for them to get the five volts.
My thinking is that for the past year, you have been running with a failed internal alternator regulator. The regulator is designed to default to about 13.5 volts when it goes - enough to partly charge the battery to start the engine, but not really enough to run the computers or near fully charge the battery.
Along with the new alternator, you have a new internal regulator, and hence what seems like a new 3.
I suggest you get yourself something like a CTEK battery maintainer and put it on your battery every night for the next couple of weeks. That should get your battery back to near a full charge.
I say that as the design of the regulator is such that the battery never gets to a full charge no matter how far or long you drive - it just does not; you need a maintainer to do that.
I have the 3 amp CTEK US 3300 model, a small one that can never do any damage, but over time can resolve a lot of what seem like electrical problems but are really just a not fully charged battery.
There are 7 files within the link below related to the alternator and regulator that may help you do understand how the 3s electrical system handles a charge.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thu...php?album=3801
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RAJOD (12-20-2017)