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Disco 5 Td6 Engine Oil DIY

Old Aug 14, 2019 | 01:50 PM
  #41  
lltt's Avatar
Three Wheeling
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I buy oil from dealer at about $12 per qt, total needed is 6 bottles. It is the Castrol 5W-30 that approved with JLR.
For the last several oil changes, I did not drain from bottom. Only did with vacuum extraction.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2019 | 06:34 AM
  #42  
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So I’ve been doing WAY too much reading and as far as I can tell the best oils for the TD6 engine now are the API FA-4 certified oils followed by the CK-4 oils if you can find the 5w30 viscosity. In the manuals for the RR with the same engine it list the STJLR.03.5005 spec as well as the ford spec. There’s also information stating to go with an ACEA C2 oil if if you can’t find find those specs. This has to do with the low HTHS (high temp/high shear) requirement for the new engines. Both the JLR spec and the ford spec meet that low requirement. Ford has since updated their recommendations after extensive testing to state that the API FA-4 oil provides better protection performance and far exceeds the initial requirements. So for this reason I just purchased a case of 12 quarts for $80 off eBay of the Motorcraft FA-4 spec oil. Anything with the FA-4 spec in the proper weight should far exceed the original JLR.03.5005 spec. The new FA-4 standard was introduced in Dec 2016 with the oils only now becoming more readily available.

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubrican...ry=Motor%20Oil

some might scoff at it being motorcraft but it’s actually manufactured by Phillips 66.
 

Last edited by ToiletDuck; Aug 17, 2019 at 06:36 AM.
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 10:41 AM
  #43  
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From: Sacramento
Default Oil extraction

I am having a hard time finding an oil extraction pump with a small enough tube to fit down pipe.
Any thoughts? Or do I just fit a tube over the top of the extrication port? I still hate there isn’t a dip stick!!

Originally Posted by Black 18 Disco
If changing your own oil here is what I have learned from my local dealership. I worked with my LR Tech for my first oil change to ensure I was doing everything properly on my Td6 - fortunately the cost of a dealer oil and filter change is only $109.95 here and a great learning experience for me too. The oil change interval is 8000 miles and is preprogrammed into your vehicle - unsure where folks are getting the 15,000 mile service interval. 8,000 miles is the standard, but go longer if you desire, and you can follow my previously posted instructions on resetting the service interval (every 8,000 miles) to avoid the annoying pop up at each engine start up. My dealership does not drop the skid plate as this requires removing a bunch of fasteners and takes a great deal of time. I'm pretty doubtful a full oil change, tire rotation and skid plate removal and reattachment can be accomplished in an hour without a lift and some extra helpful hands. And if LR wanted you to do that, why did they build in an oil extraction port? Start sucking oil through the oil extraction port - front left of the engine. This is not the dipstick tube and it is clearly visible. I purchased an oil extractor for roughly $65 via amazon that holds more that 6 liters, but has less capacity than what is needed for a gas engine. After the extraction is started, use a 32mm socket to loosen the oil filter housing. This will make the extraction easier and get you started on replacing the filter. The filter housing is located under the plastic cover on top of the engine (dead center). The cover pops off with a good pull. When replacing the filter, change the O ring included with the filter too. Pre lube it with a little oil for a good seal and tighten it down snuggly per specification. I purchased a half dozen filters online from a CA LR dealership for about $10 each plus shipping. I also bought a couple extra drain plugs, but won't be needing those after all. When done draining the oil and installing the new filter, carefully align all the plastic cover connection points before re-snapping it back in place (keeping the rubber connectors on the cover makes the reconnection process easier). As far as the oil is concerned, I'd strongly suggest using the JLR spec Castrol oil for our application - if another oil supplier cannot provide written documentation concerning their oil meeting the JLR spec, then it does not meet the spec. I personally had this conversation with Mobil regarding using a Mobil 1 product and they suggested not using their oil as nothing met the JLR specification. Not sure if the other suppliers are that honest or just trying to make a sale. My dealership sold the correct oil it to me directly (required by law) for $10.99 a liter via the parts department - I could not find the proper spec oil anywhere other that JLR. The dealership has had several problems with owners using other oils and fouling the Td6 engines. It is your investment, take care of it at your own long or short term expense. Lastly, even though it says 6.3 liters, only use 6 liters per my Technician. His experience is that the Td6 engine runs a little better with slightly less oil in the system has not been problematic on the Td6 vehicles he has serviced the past few years. Don't forget to reset the service interval (see other sticky post). For those of you changing your own oil in the past, how were you resetting the service interval?
 
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Old Jun 11, 2021 | 10:11 PM
  #44  
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You don't put it down the tube. It attaches to the top of the extraction tube and sucks it up the tube. I forget the size but you should be able to find a piece of pipe to fit over pretty easily.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2021 | 06:59 PM
  #45  
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From: Sacramento
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Originally Posted by BritCars
You don't put it down the tube. It attaches to the top of the extraction tube and sucks it up the tube. I forget the size but you should be able to find a piece of pipe to fit over pretty easily.
I figured as much. I kept reading different posts but nothing said clearly about just attaching to top of tube. It worked like a charm. Fastest oil change ever!! Thanks for the help.
 
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