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Thanks to all.
I will go to another tech and see what happens. Dealer will pay for it. What is the exact screw I need to check?
Also I’m on this now:
Monitoring. Yesterday, I did 2 regens at expected. B1S3 going up to 1200F. During the CELs I noticed NoxS1/S2 went to zero. While driving S1 is always over S2, when break is the opposite (make sense). Sometimes both when to zero (maybe an issue).
The bolt that goes in that hole.
As @Chucktastic suggested The rubber isolator should also have been replaced. It's pretty torn up. I would have it replaced as well.
Update.
When to a certified Land Rover Tech. The luck was that they are the one working on the D5 in the pass. Confirmed the Turbo, EGRs etc are just 2-3 years old.
Ok, the previous DPF was deleted without the proper ECU tuning, plate etc. Dealer understood that the new DPF needs to be remarried with the D5. They did it, DPF system also requested 2 software upgrade. Everything works… for 30 miles lol!!! New DPF confirmed! Looks like the old school O2 sensor extension for turbo downpipes on the Nox2
During the assessment, I will need both front lower control arms (best place/brand to buy it?) and the turbo has an small leak (no cel) somewhere.
I need to get back to the tech. But, I think will be a good idea to remove the sensor extension.
That's pretty great that you're getting everything all sorted out! I'm sorry you had to go through such an ordeal immediately after taking in a new truck. With all of the emissions parts behind you it should be a pretty reliable vehicle for a while. Just keep up on your maintenances. The engine wants ACEA C1 for "low SAPS". The only place I can reliably find it is from the dealer. Some online LR suppliers will ship you ACEA C2 "mid SAPS" oil instead even when their so-called kits show C1 supplied. Change the diesel fuel filter if it is unknown when the last time it was done.
As for the suspension parts, I typically buy parts like that from scuderiacarparts.com. Give the dealer a call too. Sometimes they can surprise you on parts prices.
That's pretty great that you're getting everything all sorted out! I'm sorry you had to go through such an ordeal immediately after taking in a new truck. With all of the emissions parts behind you it should be a pretty reliable vehicle for a while. Just keep up on your maintenances. The engine wants ACEA C1 for "low SAPS". The only place I can reliably find it is from the dealer. Some online LR suppliers will ship you ACEA C2 "mid SAPS" oil instead even when their so-called kits show C1 supplied. Change the diesel fuel filter if it is unknown when the last time it was done.
As for the suspension parts, I typically buy parts like that from scuderiacarparts.com. Give the dealer a call too. Sometimes they can surprise you on parts prices.
AUtohausaz.com always has the LR Castrol 5w-30 C1
They also carry Lemfoerder control arms, which are as good as the originals. I have them on mine.
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v=141218~134~5824~1~~7~6&c=16&page=1
Installed the entire DPF/SCR assembly last Sunday. Using a lift it took me and a buddy 9 hours to remove and Install. If you ever find yourself doing this job save yourself much frustration and busted knuckles and do not remove the EGR return pipe from the cooler in the engine bay. It's an absolute nightmare getting it back together. It's a 3 hand operation and there's just enough room for 1.5 hands in that space. Furthermore it's impossible to remove the old EGR pipe from the car with the engine installed to begin with because it's pinned between the engine and the firewall... Impossible to snake it out. I imagine if one took the time to unbolt the engine and trans mounts to shift things forward, maybe. Trust me not worth the effort. The old pipe is stainless there will be nothing wrong with it. The job should've taken us 4ish hours if it weren't for that pipe. Red arrow is where you should disconnect the old pipe and do not disconnect the connection at the X. Getting to the turbo flange bolts was also very challenging but necessary. I can't imagine doing this job on your back without a lift.
I used the GAPiid G4 tool to run the DOC and DPF replacement routines. Necessary when replacing them.