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I found another thread on the stop/start and guys are saying they weren't having luck getting it to work on pre 2023 models - although guys a couple did have success. I also emailed Gap and they said the same thing - it's hit or miss on some models.
Now for my new problem - the truck was dead this AM. I had locked it last night, so I needed to use the blade key to get in and a jump box to start it. Let's see if it is an anomaly from all the programming yesterday or something I programed incorrectly. I guess worse case I can restore the original settings and leave it overnight. The try again with a few re=programs. The battery is 3 years old, so maybe the programming took a toll, Funny thing is it fired right up after programming last night, so my fear is one of the changes caused the problem as I don't remember seeing a light I left on last night after I locked the vehicle.
Anyone else have a battery issue after programming?
Update - as I mentioned after programming Monday evening, I did a test drive, then locked the vehicle and went to bed. In the morning, the battery was flat when I got up on Tuesday morning. I jumped the battery and drove for a while to charge the battery. After work, I got the low battery alert but there was enough juice to start.
When I got home, I charged the battery for a bit and then last night, I reset the settings back to original/stock using my Gap Too, locked the vehicle and went to bed. This morning, the battery was fine, so I assume I fat fingered something while coding. While this is overkill, I plan to reload the updates one by one. This morning, I hooked up the charger and uploaded one coding change. The vehicle is locked and sitting all day while I work. If it's fine around 5 PM today I may load the next code (or wait until tomorrow morning). I know its overkill, but this way I can isolate the battery drain to the code I screwed up.
I will add the auto stop last as it does not seem to take on my vehicle.
I decided to stop waiting for ACC and jumped into the abyss by contacting JLR Active (www.jlractive.com) for the $1,000 package.
Here's the deal -- you no longer need to be in -or travel to- Southern California to get the activations. Garrett shipped me a loaner laptop, cables and tool for me to use at home in the PNW.
Great to talk to on the phone. Answered all my questions and concerns. Gear arrived as promised and was preprogrammed(!) with my VIN and my desired features. We did the full activations with him on Teamviewer to his laptop in under an hour - including reconfirmations, reboots and a test drive to validate it all stuck. I could not be happier with the results!!!
In addition to the full list (I didn't care for the 007 splash screen, and Global Close is only available on MY24), he activated and updated the firmware on the OEM towbar electronics module I installed a few months ago, turned off the annoying Drive-Away Locking and Drip Wipe features too.
ACC/Adaptive Cruise Control WORKS!
Dynamic Mode works!
Auto Stop/Start memory works!
Advanced Tow, Key Fob rear door release, All Terrain Progress, foglights stay on with high beams, wifi hotspot, IT ALL WORKS!
I know a lot of good people are working hard on the GAP Tool and other ways to get the evasive features like ACC to work. I wish you well, but I can't say enough good about the service and results from JLR Active. Thanks Garrett!
This great news! I will definitely take advantage of this soon! What is the lead time from ordering to getting the laptop sent in and starting the programming?
QUOTE=Fairtrade87;890754]This great news! I will definitely take advantage of this soon! What is the lead time from ordering to getting the laptop sent in and starting the programming?[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=Fairtrade87;890754]This great news! I will definitely take advantage of this soon! What is the lead time from ordering to getting the laptop sent in and starting the programming?
l guess it's well worth the $1,000 if you get everything activated.
l mainly wanted to enable the stop/start memory.
But l also disabled the auto folding mirrors, puddle lights, seat belt bong and turn lights.
l wouldn't use the other features, the GAP tool will be useful in the future to read and clear fault codes.
l tried to set the "more accurate speedometer" (in the U.K. it reads around 3mph high) and there's a more accurate setting in the menu.
However it doesn't reset the cruise so that still shows the more inaccurate speed. Apparently l need to access something called DADC to do it and GAP are working on that.
As I noted previously a few posts ago, Remember Stop/start setting MultiCAN-566MHLastUserMode = Enabled (Gap Tool) did NOT work on my 2021 Defender. Any issue leaving it "Enabled" even though it doesn't work, or should I reverse the setting back to stock?
From what I've been able to read, the last user setting, is hit or miss for Defenders before 2023. The bummer is the auto off is the main reason I bought the tool - the other upgrades were gravy.
Thanks for the info on the other settings - they seem to have worked great.
EUCD-129 Terrain Response Fitment, Set to "Auto Terrain Response Dynamic & Configurable Dynamic Mode"
EUCD-245 Dynamic-I Standard: Dynamic-i Not Fitted Changed to: Dynamic-i Content with Configurable Dynamic Mode Screen
MultiCAN-562 DynamicProgMode Standard: Not available for selection Changed to: Available for selection without timeout Other possible value: Available for selection with timeout
MultiCAN-605 ConfigDynamicMode Standard: Not Fitted Changed to: Fitted
MultiCAN-777 Ter Dyn Select In FCPB Standard: Control interface not available in FCPB
Changed to: Rotary used for selection within touch screen
Looking at a post from the Defender2.net forum, they had the above steps PLUS the following change:
MultiCAN-682 DynamicLiteMode Set to Available for Selection Without Timeout.
