While doing my 42k service myself, and removing the air filter cover I dropped the damn screwdriver into the abyss. It of course did not hit the ground thanks to the under armor and I can not see or find it anywhere. This means I have to remove the under armor 😡
I can not find any posts or videos, but it seems pretty straightforward removing the countless bolts starting at the front.
I thought while I am at it I could create an access hole in the armor for draining the oil and I can return the dipstick vacuum device I bought solely for this service.
Does anyone have any insight on this procedure before I embark on this dreaded task?

 

Just unbolt the underplating..😀

While you are there :
https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...-valve-119176/

 

I lucked out. After removing the front skid plate, the offending screwdriver was staring right at me.👍

 

I've found that a rare earth magnet on the end of a wire snake or taped to the end of a fiberglass rod to be really helpful for getting lost tools, sockets, nuts, bolts out from the abyss known as the skid-plate-catch-pan.

 

Plus one for the magnet. It is a must have tool for those who like to work on their cars.

 

Regarding the plan to enlarge the access hole in the under body armor, I am in the process planning to do exactly that. Just received my Liqui-Moly oil and filter and had previously purchased a Fumoto drain valve for this event. In the next week or so, waiting for cooler weather since it’s in the 80’s here in Florida, I plan to remove the under armor, enlarge the existing opening near the drain plug with a Dremel tool and using a piece of aluminum diamond plate and a couple of Riv-Nuts, create a simple and effective way to change my oil in less than 30 minutes. Since the ground clearance of the Defender is such that raising the vehicle is not necessary to complete this task, I will be able to remove one of the bolts from the Riv-Nut, swing the plate out of the way, open the Fumoto valve with tubing connected to direct the flow into the oil change basin and while the oil is draining, use that time to replace the filter element. When draining is complete, close the valve, swing the plate back into place, replace the bolt, then refill the oil. Then crack a cold one.

 

Can anyone with a P400 confirm that the Fumoto part# referenced in the link on post 2 is correct for that application.

 

I purchased the F106S for my P400. Installing in a few days, will post the results. I believe either the F106S or the F106SX will fit. Didn’t see the need for the swivel body as there is plenty of room and clearance, and the under body armor protects the valve from exposure to stray bits. The valve came with upgraded snap on nipples, straight and 90 deg to attach the included drain hose. Holding the actual valve and feeling its solid build, and opening and closing the valve, which actually takes a two-part effort to open making it highly unlikely anything would ever cause it to open unintentionally, has me looking forward to the install.