gotcha. I will rtv away....I usually do anyway.
I am using lubriplate and ultra slick (permatex) and some crower stuff


on the rear main seal, I think I am going to go with my first instinct and put the retainer/tension spring towards the front of the block.......sound like a plan?

 

the spring goes towards the inside of the crank

 

great. I needed the x2..... at least it is not 2 piece

 

I just picked up a block and crank from Abran. Great guy. You used the shops he recommended? Any pointers or things you would do different in dealing with them? My goal is to build a motor that will tow my boat in 110* temps. No racing, just year after year of reliable running. I will be following your thread very closely, already learned a few things. I have rebuilt a couple motors, machinist by trade. Most of my projects end up with me needing a few stitches.

 

Ab's shops did a wonderful job. And he was a great help.
Any shop could handle the heads, but they did a great job fitting oversized valves and springs. My local option wasn't enthused to oversize. I recommend and it made sense.... Everything was already there.

From a reliability/longevity aspect, I missed out on the double timing chain option (out of stock when I was ordering)

 

Are you going to dino the disco when you get her done? I'd love to see what kind of numbers you'll be putting out.

 

Yes, I will. Interested to see if I gain anything

 

not much, but back on track.
did one last thing before i capped down the crank......put in new spigot bushing. cheap 13mm socket fit inside perfectly and i put a washer and bolt to tap in.


my new dowty washers came and new thrust plate...... so i installed the cam and crank.
i went dolomite on the rear cap (put right stuff up the spine of the crucifi as well as the inside corner that is referenced in the rave) torqued down 1. sides and caps at 10ftlbs
2. main caps at 53 ftlbs then 68ftlbs
3. side bolts at 33 ftlbs

 

also if anyone is building one of these without actually taking it apart first (like me.) couple of little tid bits so far....1. the cam is retained from forward walk by the thrust plate and by the actual sprocket from backwards walk.
2. i cut off excess side seal for no reason. rave said to so i did.
3. the dowty washer can be rehabbed by flipping it. i bought new, but the slight area that is compressed can be flipped an re used.

 

stuck in the pistons tonight. big end caps are 15ftlbs + 80 degrees. nothing big here. make sure to lube sides if the ends and caps, as well as the bearing.
ring gaps I referenced earlier, but should mention that only compression ring 2 has a top orientation. writing on 1 and 2, but 2 has a top reference.