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Thanks Best. That is good news then. I was worried about the darker discoloration.
Doing this top end repair has been costly, timely and fun for me but this is about indepth that I will probably go on this engine. I don't want to majorly fk something up.
Plus I'm a bit OCD. While working on the engine I'll find old wire wrappings missing or just crumbling to bits. Then I order different inner diameters of insulated wire wrap, split spiral conduit at 2 meters and zip ties to properly repair the wire/cable bundles. Very timely and costly...
Finally after several months of having the CARRS4x4 door handle pin from @abran , I installed it today. The instructions from his website was extremely easy to follow to disassemble the door panel and install the door pin.
Honestly it would have taken me about 20 minutes to totally install the door pin but I ran into small problems from my end...
1) Have gorilla hands so it was hard from me to fit my hands inside the hole in the door to unhook the plastic piece from the connecting rod. I was able to get a pointy end of a scribe in there and unhook the connecting rod from the door handle assembly.
2) I didn't have a pin punch but only a tapered punch. I sprayed the area of the handle with penetration oil and punched the roll pin outward. Then I resprayed that same area again with penetration oil again and knocked out the roll pin the opposite way. The door handle pin easily popped out after doing this.
3) Installing the handle was super easy. The hardest part was finding out my driver's door card had only 4 of 10 door card clips to secure it to the door. My military attention to detail was pinging and wanted perfection so I ordered 30 of the door card clips in case I find more missing on my Disco.
Needless to say the driver's door opens, closes And locks perfectly. Cheers @abran !!!
I also took some Mother's aluminum polish and a green scrub pad to clean and shine up my intake manifold. I should have taken a before pic but I really didn't think I would have any good results. Now I think it looks better than before.
It was too muggy today to fully work on Myrtle. I crimped and heat shrunk 2 each 10AWG grounding cables from the intake manifold and coil pack mount to the 10mm firewall ground bolt.
Last edited by JUKE179r; Jun 27, 2020 at 03:50 PM.
As much as I don't like Fram filters I couldn't pass up buying two Fram XG16 oil filters for $1.87 a piece! I bought them at The Exchange on the RAF military base.
They were cheap but the boxes and filters each look dodgy af...
I installed the reconditioned Bosch 0280155705 injectors. It was a fairly simple job following the RAVE manual but I found some takeaways to make it easier…
Have plenty of rags ready. The fuel rail holds quite a bit of fuel that needs to be drained from the schrader valve and rear fuel rail connector.
Uncap the test port on the fuel rail and press the schrader valve inward to release the fuel pressure. Have a rag ready.
When removing the old fuel injectors, check the inside of the injector ports for o-rings and the plastic bits from the old injectors.
Apply Vaseline to all the fuel injector ports that the injector fits into on the engine and the fuel rail. Also add Vaseline to all the new fuel injector o-rings. This helps inserting the new injectors into place without pinching the o-rings.
After inserting the fuel injectors, fuel rail, tightening the 4 fuel rail mount bolts and connecting the rear fuel rail connector, pressurize the fuel rail to check for leaks. I used my Nanocom to turn on and off the fuel pump to pressurize it.***Be mindful of fuel and electrics***.
Make sure all of the top engine wire assemblies are zip tied/secured out of the way so nothing is pinched when installing the intake manifold.
Old green Bosch 0280155787 vs. reconditioned tan Bosch 0280155705 injectors...
The new tan injectors didn't have a groove for the metal injector mount clip so I didn't install the clip...
I noticed while removing the injectors that I was missing the metal clip for #4 injector so I zip tied it to the new injector when I installed it...
Last edited by JUKE179r; Jul 15, 2020 at 02:17 AM.
I still have to install the IM, coil, spark plug leads and SAI plumbing... ugh.
Since I did a top end rebuild I figured it was the best time to swap the injectors. The injectors could possibly be 19 years old if the previous owner never replaced them. Seeing how bad they looked and the cheap cost for a set of 8 reconditioned injectors ($78) I’m glad I did replace them.
I had to do some serious research on various Bosch injectors as suitable substitutes for the stock Bosch 0-280-155-787 injectors. I read up on injector flow rates, Ohms/resistance (high impedence), Ratings=BARs & PSI, physical dimensions, number of orifices for the spray pattern, and many many hours reading forum discussions including RR P38 forums about the Thor engine and injectors.
Only time will tell how well these reconditioned 0-280-155-705 injectors will perform.
Last edited by JUKE179r; Jul 15, 2020 at 05:38 AM.
