So I went out and tested the voltage on CKP, not sure I tested right, used 20v on DC and got .01, so went with a light tester, and it barely flickered and I mean really barely when cranking over. Also tested the coil pack, and on the 200k ohm setting got the following, 1/6- 12.5 - 12.6, 5/8- 12.3, 7/4- 12.5, 3/2- 12.4. Then tested on the 20k ohm setting and got 1/6- 12.60 - 12.61, 5/8- 12.37 - 12.38, 7/4- 12.55 -12.56, 3/2- 12.45 - 12.46. The 20k numbers are what it would go back and forth between. Not sure if this means they are fine, and that the results from testing the CKP means it's junk or I just didn't test it right. Anyway hope you have a good weekend.

 

Coil readings look fine. Usually, if a coil goes bad, it will be only one at a time. That causes rough running, but not fail to start.

Flickering light on CKP sensor sounds right. I think it provides short 5 volt pulses as the teeth of the reluctor wheel pass by the sensor pin. It would look like numbers jumping around randomly on a digital meter, or the needle wagging rapidly on an analog meter, during cranking.

Wonder if the anti-theft system has you locked out? Maybe won't crank if that happened? I'm not sure, since I do not know how the anti-theft system works. Something about unlocking and locking the driver door with the key five times, while standing on one foot. There are threads about that on this Forum. (Just joking about standing on one foot, but maybe worth a try)

 

I did try locking and unlocking once, but will look into the anti theft and can give it a try since it can't hurt anything, but the standing on one foot might be hard to do :P. Right now weather forecast is looking horrible for crawling under it and taking the CKP out, rain from Sun-Thurs., then low chance on Thurs. and Fri. then Sat. starts high chance of rain for a week :S.

 

So I went up and attempted the solutions for the anti-theft lockout stuff, lock and unlock 3 times, key in the ignition off to run let it sit for 30 seconds and repeat a few times, and even tried the hold key in door to locked to where the lights don't flash, and then unlock. No change at all, had key on and gave the little green anti-theft box on passenger side a little tap, and then the turn signal light started flashing as if the hazard lights were on. Tried to lock it, but it would only lock drivers side door, so disconnect battery for about 20 seconds, and hooked it back up and locks work fine again. Though the hood was up, and no alarm going off. Locked it and unlocked it several times just like you normally would if you were locking, with hood up and nothing. Hold key in the lock position for a few seconds and it gave a quick couple of honks, and I then unlocked it, put hood down, and locked again, and lights flash as normal, though the red alarm light on dash was flashing 3 times rapidly, then repeating for a few moments, then went to just one blink. Not sure if that means anything or not, but she still refuses to start, and battery is rather drained from the attempts, so going to have to charge it on Monday. I am at a complete loss here as to what is going on, and why the alarm wouldn't go off like it used to when the hood was up and doors would be locked. Yeah I did that a few times forgetting hood was up lol. Anyway that is it for now, and hopefully Thurs. I will be able to throw something down so I can crawl under it and swap the CKP's and see if that does anything.

 

So went up as it was decent enough today to swap the CKP out for the one that was originally in the car when I got it, put it back together and nada, cranks all day but no fire, no spark, no codes. So either I have 2 bad CKP or, and most likely something else is going on, but what it could be is beyond me. I checked fuses under dash and hood all are good, connections to everything are good so I am at a complete loss here as to what is going on.

 

Too bad the ECMs are different between your two vehicles, otherwise could swap in a known good one. Please remind us if you have fuel pressure, and fuel pump is running while cranking. Does it try to start if you spray starting fluid into the intake? Did you measure 12 volts on the coils red wires when the key is ON.

 

Havent tried a pressure test, I did push in on the valve stem and fuel squirts out, will go give it a test later today, or tomorrow depending on if my back calms down, and haven't tried starting fluid as I don't have any currently. Closest thing I have to it is brake cleaner, and haven't tried testing the coils while key is on and it's hooked up, but will try that out when I go test the fuel pressure. I do know it kinda smells a little flooded at times when I was cranking it over yesterday, and still no light when testing for spark, can't remember if I mentioned that or not. Gonna also put a little heater in it later as at one point weeks ago I came out and there was a little bit of water on the passenger side front floor mat, and no clue how it got there, and it hasn't shown up again even with heavy rains, but maybe something got wet so gonna see if that helps.

Was also wondering about relays, as there are quite a few over on the passenger side, and I do have to go to the pick apart yard and pick up a starter for the Frontier, and wasn't sure if maybe a relay could be causing the problem. Oh should mention when I cranked it over yesterday the CEL didn't flash when cranking it was just solid on. Not sure if that's important or not. Anyway will update once I have given the coils a test and the pressure at the rail.

 

So I went up to test the fuel pressure, but apparently the pressure tester I have doesn't have the right size for the valve on the fuel rail, so gotta buy a adapter. Then I ended up finding a can of starting fluid and it kinda sounded like it wanted to start at first, but then nothing even when spraying little sprays in. So then I went to test the coil pack, and honestly don't think I was doing it right, so when I test it on the coils red wires I should have it unhooked except for the plug that goes into the loom? Also as I am still not very proficient with multimeter would that be the V on the left side with the solid line, then dashes underneath, or the right V and the curved line? Will attach a pic of my multimeter. So tomorrow gonna head to town and pick up a adapter for pressure tester, so I can actually test it lol.

 

Yes for the meter setting, 20 or 200 is fine. Straight line is DC, wavy line is AC (sine wave). If you can connect an alligator clip on one of the coil terminal nuts, or back-probe the plug connector with a pin or fine wire at the red wire. Should read battery voltage with key ON.

Trying to figure what could cause no spark. I think if the shifter is in the wrong position, that causes no crank, but just make sure it is really in Park or Neutral, maybe try each position. Same with anti-theft, I think that gives no crank, but not sure. I think the only thing that could cause no spark is the CKP sensor, wiring or coil relays, or the ECM. Checking for volts at the coils will get us closer to the answer. Sorry this is taking so long.

 

No worries on the taking a while, honestly would rather spend a while taking time to get it fixed than start throwing money at it again like I did when I first got it, started running really rough, and had no clue why. So got new injectors, that wasn't it, a used fuel rail, nupe, plugs and wires, nupe, a few other parts, then rebuilt heads off ebay, and after I had taken it apart down to head gasket realized there was a spot between cyl 6 & cyl that wasn't there on the gasket. Never even thought to check compression first lol. Anyway shifter position couldn't be it as it's a 5 speed manual, the weird thing was that when I first tried the starting fluid yesterday it burped a couple times like it wanted to start, but then went back to nah nothing but cranking over. Even tried the old hold the butterfly open and spray it in, and nothing. Gonna look and see if I can get some relays today when I pick up the part to get my pressure tester to work on the fuel rail. Also not sure if I mentioned that not sure about the spark part, as I got curious and tested resistance on the spark tester light I have and discovered that with the bulb in it reads 0 on all resistance settings, pulled it apart, and all parts have resistance on their own except the bulb which is at 0, so going to get a new bulb also. Probably won't be able to get to it to test today after I get back so update will be tomorrow most likely.

Also I really do appreciate all the help and suggestions you have been giving me with the battery drain, and surprise not wanting to start issue, as well as the help you have given in the past. I honestly have a love hate relationship with my Disco, but really only hate it when something decides to go wonky, or when I am working on something where it makes no sense why they did it that way. Anyway hope ya have a good one, and will update with results of tests.