Could have been some dieseling that caused it to burp vs actual spark. It is normal for incandescent bulbs to read zero when cold, the ohms increase only when it is glowing hot, the filament is simply a piece of tiny tungsten wire. If the wire breaks (bulb burns out), they read infinite ohms (open circuit).

 

Oh ok, going to see if I can find another bulb today as 0 luck yesterday, also same with finding the valve adapter for my fuel pressure tester. Sadly looks like today is going to be a no testing day as it's pouring rain. Weather forecast is looking like the 23rd is next day with no rain, then not until the 30th, so may not be a update till then. Though if the weather changes I will see what I can do, and I was wondering something about the CKP, I have read things saying how you have to get them in at just the exact correct angle and such, but with the bolts for the cover only able to go in one way wouldn't that kinda make it so it couldn't go in at an angle where it wouldn't work? Just wondering as I have been thinking on that a little and the fact that each time I have done anything with it I have worked around the exhaust.

 

For the CKP, the reluctor ring on the flywheel is set up like a bunch of little American Football goal posts. The CKP sensor tip goes right down the middle. Each goal post causes a magnetic fluctuation that causes a pulse in the CKP. Setting it in at the correct depth is important, and there are a couple different spacers to accomplish this, depending on the engine model. Once tightened up, the sensor should be straight in, don't really think the angle is adjustable.

The reluctor ring goal posts can get bent if they hit something, so those should also be straight. LR even has a special tool they are proud of to set those gaps. They just need to be straight. There is a missing goal post at TDC, so the ECM knows where it is every revolution. Don't think a bent tab will cause Crank-no-start, but they can be examined turning the crank by hand. For my '96, the PO had bent the tip on the CKP sensor, so I needed to adjust a couple reluctor tabs, not sure how that happened.

 

Thank you for the info, I had found a few LR forums where the angle of the CKP was mentioned, and if it's not exactly right then it won't start, but that always did confuse me since the bolts kinda keep it from going in any other way except with the plug end facing down. I ended up getting another fuel pressure tester same as I have, since the local NAPA is going out of business so it was 50% off. So tomorrow, weather permitting am going to go test that, and I found one of my old spark testers so that should help, plus do the multimeter test on coil pack. Depending on what those tell me I may end up ordering a new set of studs and gaskets for where the exhaust manifold connects to the pipe, and drop it down on the side with the CKP so I can actually see what is going on, and not have to fight around it lol.

Maybe the PO didn't have it in all the way or, they put it in without the spacer so it was just in too far and got bent. Only way I can think of that something like that might happen. Will let ya know what I find out tomorrow with the tests, and thank you again for the info.

 

I was able to go out and do a test on the fuel pressure, and use the multimeter to test the wires on bottom of coil pack with key on. The fuel pressure read what I am guessing is 39, as it was just a tiny bit below 40, and did so with 3 additional tests to make sure. The multimeter readings for bottom of coil pack wires are the red power wire that runs to all of the packs 11.83 on every pack, and then tested the different colored wires, and they all read 11.84. Dunno if these are good numbers or not, but there they are. I hope you all have a Merry Christmas.

 

Well, those are good numbers. Excellent fuel pressure, and voltage at the coils near battery voltage. So, problem has to be with the control system. Either CKP sensor, ECM, or wiring/connectors, or still can't get anti-theft out of my mind.

There are threads about bypassing the anti-theft module. My '96 has done crank-no-start in the past, far from home, in a parking garage, years ago. I think I needed to lock and unlock the driver door with the key, then it worked. Hope we aren't going around in circles here. Merry Christmas to you too!

 

Sokay I have learned with this Disco sometimes you end up going in circles and tripping over what is actually going on. Honestly there is a lot the PO did, and didn't do to the rig that just messed so many things up. Weather isn't going to be conducive to working outside for a bit so decided to order a new CKP just as a in case, also the manifold to exhaust gaskets and studs. So that way when I am able I can drop the exhaust down and out of the way so I can see what I am doing with the CKP, and double check the wiring while I am at it. Worst case I end up using the new CKP and it works fine, or I just end up with another spare lol.

I can try the door locking thing again, and I do remember that when I tried previously it locked ok, but the little red alarm light on dash would rapidly blink a few times in the same pattern, and then go to a slower steady 1 blink if I am remembering correctly. Will also look up the bypass/workaround for the anti-theft and see what happens there. Will also give the other anti-theft lockout type stuff a going over as well, and probably pull the unit to check it as it's possible that whatever mystery reason there was some water on passenger floorboard could be that it got some in it somehow. Anyway will let ya know once I am able to update with new info, and if you think of anything else feel free to let me know. Hopefully it won't be more than a week or so before the Oregon weather decides to behave enough for me to do some of it lol.

 

I dont know if this will help you, but it seems to have solved my battery drain for the time being and im letting it ait for 4 days as a test. Disconnect the immobilizer, ive been told they can develop weird issues. So far 3 days in a row my battery held at 12.2v each morning and i drove it fine each day. This will eliminate central locking but there's a plug in bypass online for like 20 bucks

 

Just wondering is the immobilizer what they also call a spider, because as far as I can remember mine doesn't have one, just the green alarm box down in the passenger side under dash area.

 

yes, if you don't have the spider box that green box is what you're looking for. Unplug it and see what happens