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Oh wow, yes I need to get that. Next paycheck.

But update: I tried jumping it yesterday and I couldn't get it to turn over, it still sounded weak and didn't sound much better than without the cables. So it might not be the battery/alternator; although the battery is pretty corroded around the metal, so I'm getting another battery to put in today and hopefully that will work. If it's not though, then what should my next step be? Alternator? Or something else? Like I said I installed a new CPS/fuel pump, so what would be next on the list to take care of?

Thanks.

 

Another question too: I don't know if this is related or if this is just random, but in the attached picture you can see that there is this mud colored stuff in the engine bay and on the inside of the hood. Is that just from driving or is that something else? I'm not entirely sure. And yes I just took the oil cap off.

 

I'm late to the party, and this is super obvious(also I am assuming you checked this when you cleaned the terminals)... But have you made sure the connectors are tight on the battery terminals, like really tight? I had a similar issue and of course expected the worst, changed the starter only to realize the negative cable was a bit loose.

 

Your alternator doesn't come into play until truck is running. Starting and cranking is the responsibility of the battery. It sounds to me you have a voltage issue. Either at the battery or with the cables not letting voltage go where it should.
Fuel pump etc has nothing to do with cranking. Even if your fuel pump was laying on the floor the truck would still crank. Low voltage or loose cables will cause the truck to run poorly and stall. So make sure all your cables are clean and tight and your cables are in good shape.

 

Okay got new battery in it cranks but won't turn over, and I ended up checking the fuel pump again and fuel wasn't going through. So now I have to get another fuel pump. But what would've caused it to go bad already? It's only been a month and it's gone bad. Is there a certain one I need to get? The last was a universal so I'm guessing that's why it's junk now. There's one on Atlantic British for 250$ is that a good buy? Let me know your guys's input. Thanks again.

 

Yikes, $250 for a fuel pump! That's outrageous...... You don't need the entire housing and float you just need the pump motor. NAPA P74006 is the pump motor I used and much cheaper. Airtex 3240 is the other equivalent.

You might have a faulty pump relay, it's a small black box on the passenger fender, has two coils in it and only one is used. If you remove the cover you can check if it's working.

 

Something else just came to mind and rather than edit my post I'll just shoot another out there......

Pumps just don't fail after a month because when a pump fails it's due to the brushes and I just don't think that's a player at all. Check your wiring at the pump, make sure the connections are clean, tight and free of water. If you follow the wires from the pump connections to the right there is another connector that usually gets bunged up, same thing, check it. Check your fuses too, engine compartment fuse box for sure. Really easy to see if one is blown there and going by your first post it sounds like something went south electrically.

 

Just got the chance to work on it today, put a new pump in and the fuel pump is working okay, but now I have a problem where it's not starting up. I charged my battery and checked if the cells were bad but everything checked out. Hooked it back up and jumped it with another car and could only get it to start twice--both times it died after idling about 30 seconds. I haven't been been able to get it started besides that. And it's still idling high up to the 2000 rpm range when I did have it running. Any thoughts? Trying to do everything I can to not have it towed.

And yes the fuses and whatnot we're good for the pump.

 

Being that it's in the rust belt have you checked the ECU for corrosion/holes in the covers? Top of passenger inner fender near hood hinge, next to washer fluid container, remove black plastic cover, remove large electrical plug (Molex) and then remove ECU and check it for holes and or board corrosion.