You bet. Will certainly drain/refill before first crank up, and have a good mind to pour in some flush while the valley pan is off. Have verified all lifters rotate and move in their bores, just can't tug them out. Will do a second oil change after initial few minutes of testing.

Was cleaning off the block today and noticed cross hatching on the cylinder walls. Would have thought at 185 K there would not be a lot of that left.

Red color on heads was gone after hot tanking. Machine shop said it was an additive in the oils. Noticed that I have the same red "band" around bottom of lifters (the cam end). This is when viewed from above the cam, looking down thru the valley. ATF? Marvel Mystery Oil? Trying to think of what would produce the red stain on the metal.

May break down and finish the HG, then jack up truck and push the ramps under it so I can get at the pan. I'm trying to get done in the next 8 days, between weather and schedule who knows.

 

buzz I had the y pipe off and the sway bar dropped when I did the pan so not sure if they will be in your way

 

Session 14

Cleaned head surfaces with brake cleaner to remove any oils. Cleaned out bolt holes (oil and coolant from head removal). Gaskets don't line up just right.

See https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...xpected-59922/

 

Just weld the head to the block Your compression ratio will increase too

 

At least you had a garage....

 

Garage/sardine can

 

so small you had to step outside to change your mind....

 

Will never forget the moment I finally lifted the engine out only to realize I had nowhere to go with it except through the kitchen, by hand.

 

kind of like build the boat in the basement

 

Session 15

Spent a couple of hours, cleaned out every bolt hole to be sure no coolant or oil in them. Shop vacced the cylinders for small trash. Found out my digital 1/2 inch torque wrench only goes down to 29 foot pounds. Got out the old reliable manual style and marked scale with tape so I could read it at angles.

All new bolts lightly oiled with bolt grease that came with them, plus swabbed the contact surface around the bolt holes. Tightened per RAVE to 15 ft lbs. Got out the 24 inch breaker bar and marked every bolt head with a scratch at 12:00 position. Turned all per RAVE pattern to 3:00. Then turned all to 6:00. Only needed cheater bar once, more for what I could not reach with my orangutan arms. No bolts cracked off.

It is important to note that the RAVE shop manual pages shows the driver's side head --- for UK. It's the passenger side in the US.