I also pondered spacing down the front sway but figured if the right front dropped low in a rutt the drive shaft will be metal to metal on the swaybar, imo it is in a bad location

 

spending this week adding an ultra gauge with alarms for cooling temp
adding electric gauges for Oil Pressure , Oil Temperature and volts

 

When I do get my tires I'll be doing some off road stuff, not that rock crap. Could they pop out then?

 

Your rears will dislocate long before your fronts, mainly due to the radius arms greatly limiting front axle articulation. What springs/shocks are you running again?

Anytime you get cross-axled you have the chance to dislocate springs depending on your set up, it doesn't only happen in the rocks. It can happen quite frequently in washouts for example.

 

Terrafirma +2 HD

 

Pull the front sway bar and run it. Adapt and adjust as necessary. Even if the front springs dislocate its not like they can go that far with a shock running through them.

 

I was able to get the nut off using a large combination wrench that is sold for trailer hitch *****. Though I has to brace myself against the frame of the truck while pushing on the wrench with my foot, LOL. Soak that thing in PB Blaster a few days.
And if you're having that much fun with the ball joint just wait till you try to remove the 6.5" long bolts holding the arms to the ball joint bracket. If you don't need to remove those I wouldn't even waste your time trying. A shop press is pretty much a must for removing/installing the new bushings/ball joint.

 

Yeah, not touching those long bolts. And I've got a 20-ton press I'm using. Was planning on cutting the wings and using the press for the balljoint, just hope the a arm can fit in the press so I can do the bushings too.

I used my angle grinder to chamfer the edge of one of my sockets, and it still would barely fit the nut for the ball, might need to look into what you did... or just cut the M-effer off, hah.

 

That's exactly what I did. CAREFULLY cut the bolt wings/tabs off the old ball joint. Then stick it in the press and pop it out. Then be careful to line everything up when pressing in the new one.
When doing the chassis bushings on the A-arm you should be able to do one at a time and hang one arm under the press.
Also, I didn't try too hard to get the cotter pin out of the old castle nut on the ball joint. Get out what you can and when the nut turns it will shear off the rest.

 

fixed my high idle, after checking linkages and vacuum leaks I swapped the tps with no luck and cleaned the iac, ended up replacing the iac problem solved

also pulled out all the cable in the winch and rewound it, it was bird nested ugh