Ordered a pair of key blanks from ebay. The single key that came with the D1 is cracked down the middle and I'd like to replace it before I get stuck somewhere with half a key in my hand and the other half in the ignition lock somewhere.

 

Most Locksmiths carry the Ilco X239 RV4 key blanks. Doesn't have the molded plastic bow but hey it's a key.

 

Got some frantic texts and a phone call from my youngest daughter out in So Cal, that the alarm in the '94 Disco we just got wouldn't go off. She's been driving it today, everything was fine until she came out to the truck after stopping at a CVS pharmacy. Said after she unlocked the truck, the alarm went off after she opened the door, and wouldn't go off. Apparently, it stops after a set amount of time, and she tried it again and same thing happened. She eventually got it home, and called me. I was researching the alarm issue after her first text, and since we don't have a key fob, it took a while to find anything I could use. I found a post that said to lock/unlock the door with the key five times, which should clear the alarm. Since she was able to get the truck started after the alarm initially went off, I'm assuming it doesn't have an immobilizer.

Anyway, she sent me some pics of the key holes on the driver and passenger doors, and it looks like someone tried to break into the truck. Looks like we were able to get the alarm to reset, either by dumb luck or using the lock/unlock trick with the key. I asked her to test the spare keys I made, and she said when she locked the truck, the red light would flash, then stop when she unlocked the truck, so I think we're good to go now.

 

Good to know. I only paid $6 for the pair shipped so I'm not out much except the delivery time.

 

Picked up the D1 from the trans shop, with the used trans ($375) installed and the 2" springs ($340), new shocks ($200), and 235/85s ($650) on RRC wheels ($200) swapped on (total labor for everything was $1500). Wow, it definitely has that lifted look, and the 235/85s just clear the lower fenders, at least on the street. It's nice to have a trans that shifts thru all the gears now, goes into reverse, and where I can actually use the CDL shift lever again! Also got some universal fit rubber mats, and trimmed the driver's side to fit around the dead pedal. Local auto parts stores didn't have the large universal mud flaps, so I might have to look on eBay or Amazon for a set of those (and use the sawzall to remove the stock flap mounting hardware).

 

Looks good but wow those tires look big for the wells, think I see camel cut in your future

If the sway bars are still on you probly want to pull em before the rear flips and binds and the front hits the drive shaft doesn't take much travel with lift for that to happen

 

Good idea...I'll crawl underneath the truck over the weekend and take a look at those sway bars. Will removing them impact the steering or ride quality on the street? I'm going to try and get the alignment checked over the weekend, I could ask the shop to remove them while they're at it?

 

They are literally like 4 bolts and 2 nuts per sway bar....super easy to remove. That's even easier than a 2" lift which can be done with like 3 wrenches and a few sockets. And why exactly did you go with RRC wheels. They just look out of place on a Disco to me.

 

I'll see if the alignment place will remove the sway bars. If they're that easy, shouldn't cost much more than the alignment. As for the RRC wheels, I just don't like the looks of the stock D1 wheels that were on there. The RRC wheels will be easier to clean, instead of having to deal with the fat spokes on the stock wheels.

 

Check these RRC TWR wheels out Rob...; 1995 Range Rover

They're the most popular and getting harder to find.