Replace my rusted out rear muffler. Really had to wrestle with it to get old pipe off the center muffler. First time I ever changed brake pads on my D1. Got to admit it’s the easiest pad replacement I ever done on a vehicle.

 

stainless muffler, I’m looking at my front brakes they look original from 1995 the wear pattern on the rotors looks a bit suspect.

 

Did more work on the abs delete and relocation. The original approach wasn’t going to work for a couple of reasons. Using pre made lines, you will have to place proportioning valve on some odd location, as well as the T for the rear brakes. Second I ordered the wrong ones(the flared ends). So I started cutting and moving around factory ones, found a good spot for the T, upfront. I did it factory still, a hard place to reach.
The proportioning valve is at the stock location but moving all the lines around to get a good idea, or where the new ones will go. I want a clean look. So I’m ordering 25 feet of line and the correct tool to flare it. Cleaned the abs area, checked for rust underneath. Cleaned the new headlight and fan shroud.
Really need to get a good( fast) floor jack. Lifting the front end of this tank takes a while, also the removable handle is gone.


Master cylinder connected, the two lines there are for the front brakes. I’m going to dial the lines a bit more.

The proportioning valve(busted one) attached to make it easy to lineup the lines.

T location for the rear brakes, wrong one because of the end flares.

Pretty clean, try to do a bit in the area where I work.

No rust California car!

Clean there as well.

 

Way too much cleaning it, also repaired a crack on the plastic.

on that subject, were the shrouds clear coated. Because I could scrape stuff up that looks like clear. I don’t think is any kind of dilamination, but how knows. Now is fixed and clean next step later.

 

It actually was the weld that attaches the pipe to the muffler itself so I opted just to replace the entire section. One of my CATs is rattling inside and want to replace it…to costly. Now would be the time CAT thieves could help me out.
Orginal brake!? That lasted awhile. If I learnt anything don’t go budget on parts, they don’t last.

 

The plastic that wraps at the end the grill. Had to go back yesterday. Forgot it twice, also got the plastic cover on the back of the alternator and a few odd parts. What a difference, I started to fix some of the broken grill tabs, and removed some of the twist on the top section with too much heat. Been doing some plastic welding, and the Land Rover plastic welds pretty good.

The new white piece is perfect, so the corners is 100% again.

Cover and couplers

 

The abs delete is two small pieces of tubing away from been completed. But they are going to be a pain, the T for the rear brakes. I want to finish, to see if correct (no leaks) the cheap tool is proving to me a hassle, very hard to get what I would call a perfect flare ! But will see, if it leaks I’m buying a nice one.

Front one, looks much closer in the photo.

Yes the proportioning valve is the old one you definitely needed it to route the tubing. Very tricky to do, is very hard to work around all the junk, because everything is so rigid.

 

Update: It was just a fuel pump. Runs and drives now. Fresh oil change. New tires will be next. Well I am excited. I am getting a 1995 Disco FREE today. The guy said just get it off his lot. It is being delivered today September 19th. No title, no battery and I am okay with that. He said it ran fine before it was parked there. I will check fluids, put a battery in it and hopefully it cranks right up. We will see.

 

Cool! You can’t go wrong with free.

 

Made supports for the grill, no more gettho repairs. More 3d printing coming up.

Left it a bit proud for sanding to have a good mechanical bond.

Is identical to the factory piece

The back

They are called supports, do the floating part can stay up. If not you can build it in two pieces, but then you have to glue them together.