Yea I think I got a pretty decent price for the heads, they're going to clean them and do the work including valves for $260,thought that was pretty good

 

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

 

Thanks for the photos jfall, yours looks really clean, what did you use?

 

Get gloves.
Use carb cleaner.
Do it outside.

 

I'm wondering, the workshop manual says I torque on the head bolts to 15 ft lbs, but my Cal hawk torque wrench only goes down to 20,will it be a problem if I torque it to 20?

 

I would advise follow the book exactly. I didn't and got more trouble than I bargained for, going higher torque than listed. Left my digital wrench on the bench and got out the old school one. Also, use old or new valley pan gasket as a template when placing the heads on, they have two alignment dowels, but can move about a little. That allows you to bolt in the valley pan gasket and get it lined up perfect as well before torquing down heads.

I missed that step, and although I had all the coaching from the upper branches of the shade tree and the forum, somehow others watched and chuckled as I descended in to the valley pan of stripped bolts.

In other words, read thru my post to see what not to do, and the consequences contained. Valve cover gasket metal spacers will drop out and into motor with amazing ease. Did not see an answer, but Victor Reinz set I got came with valley pan, $118; AutoHausAZ.com; there are other sources, brand, and prices, lowest being I believe Rovah Fahm at about $89.

 

I have a cheap duralast torque wrench that goes down to 15 lbs but I've never even used it before, just collecting dust in my garage, but I would hate for it to not work correctly, I did use the new valley pan gesket as a template to line the heads up, I screwed in all the new head bolts but I havent torqued them yet, should I just go buy a new torque wrench?

 

15 lbs is not much.
If you are in doubt, get a new torque wrench.

You could go to a store and put their wrench on 15 lbs and put an extension on it and try to turn it on something and get a feel for what 15 lbs feels like.

You will need iron gas pipe to finish the 2nd round of tightening to slip over a breaker bar.

Get a shop vac and suck the dirt and antifreeze out of the head bolt holes.
use long q tips to check if they are dry down at the bottom.

Lightly lub the bolts with oil.

put a small dab of grease under the head of the bolt. Very thin coating so the bolt will not gaul.

Use the bolt pattern sheet to tighten all of it.

Put a paint stripe across each bolt to assure a visual 90 degrees.

Good luck

Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream

http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover

 

And if needed, use a wire brush for cleaning gun barrels to clean out threads, not a tap.

 

Went out and bought a new torque wrench and now I have the heads on, trying to install the lower intake back but some of the bolts won't screw down, most go down with ease but a couple, don't want to strip them out..., I haven't installed rocker arms back yet, noticed in the workshop manual it says to install rockers first then the lower, could that be my problem,?... doesn't really make sense but then again a lot of things don't make sense to me