When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just out of curiosity, what are the "stay away" vin ranges?
I tried to find it via Google but had no luck. It's pretty much a non issue at this point as the ones with really bad issues have failed already unless you find one from a time capsule. This one may have been sitting for years, I have no idea if any history on it.
If you find a good deal on an 03, don't hesitate to buy it. If the oil pump is going you'll notice the oil light won't go off. Let it warm up and listen for any knocking or ticking. The chances of an over heat and slipped sleeve are much greater on any 4.0/4.6 than that of a sudden failed oil pump
I feel that adding a temp and oil gauge are must haves to any d2, along with a thermostat mod and verify the cooling fan is working properly. If that's not fine those should be the first things to do even before you mess with getting rid of the three amigos.
I'm mostly asking because finally, after almost a year, I've found a really nice 4.6 for my "mint" disco rebuild. It came from a low-mileage truck. But if the "bad VINs" have all failed by now, then I don't have an issue.
If you want to pull the block out of the engine bay, it's easier to jack up the engine, remove the mounts, and then drop it down to reach the transmission bolts (check out the Atlantic British video).
I'm mostly asking because finally, after almost a year, I've found a really nice 4.6 for my "mint" disco rebuild. It came from a low-mileage truck. But if the "bad VINs" have all failed by now, then I don't have an issue.
If you want to pull the block out of the engine bay, it's easier to jack up the engine, remove the mounts, and then drop it down to reach the transmission bolts (check out the Atlantic British video).
Along with lowering the transmission use a ratchet strap to pull it to the rear of the transmission to the opposite side.
The 4.6 goes to the heat vat tomorrow. Finished cam bearings coming from Turner in the UK next week. Looked into purchasing a cam install tool but after looking at block I think I can use seal install tools. I have a 6ft piece of 3/8 all thread I use from installing the front inner axle seals in my Ford excursion. I believe I can do the same with these. May freeze them to make them slide in much easier.
Any opinions on removing timing cover dowels? Leave the dowels?
Last edited by PickleRick; Nov 21, 2024 at 03:21 PM.
4.0 daily driver. Cold oil pressure is spot on. Warm 2k only oil pressure is good. Idle oil pressure is sub 10 psi. Recent OEM oil pump install. No coolant loss. 240,xxx or so miles.
Heads recently done.
Warm idle knock. Goes away as oil pressure rises with rpm
So long as the main and cam bearings didn't completely go and damage the block she's getting the low mileage 4.6 rotating assembly with all new bearings.
Maybe only use one dowel for front cover, if worried about alignment issue. Thicker oil for knock at idle? Thanks for all the photos.
I'm planning on using the 4.0 block for this one. The 4.6 block is a bit of a gamble. I have actually removed both dowels from the 4.6 block. Still contemplating what to do with it. Another disco purchase is in our future when another deal comes along. I've found a few but been too busy to make a 2-3 hour drive.
This engine is a little clean for a rover motor. I sealed this one a few years back. The Rover tick developed a few weeks ago.
Wanted to put my kid in a rover but a 73k Mile Audi A3 TDI hatchback with DSG fell in my lap. I've wanted to play with a common rail TDI. If my kid destroys his first car I have another TDI engine for a future TDI project
Last edited by PickleRick; Dec 22, 2024 at 11:19 AM.