End All answer to stupid oil questions.
I also purchased one of these filters in the past from WorlPac just to see how it would work. In my opinion, it is far too heavy for the timing cover. The factory replacement Mann filter is a much better choice. Besides, if you need that much filter then you engine problems anyway. LOL
Also, diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine is not a good idea either. I only use Lubro-Moly 5/40 in my 4.6 and all my customer Rover's. It stops a lot of the engine noise and isn't all that bad on the seals. Part of my job is to stop the leaks... which I have had a high success rate with. And you can run it all seasons. Just my two cents worth.
Also, diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine is not a good idea either. I only use Lubro-Moly 5/40 in my 4.6 and all my customer Rover's. It stops a lot of the engine noise and isn't all that bad on the seals. Part of my job is to stop the leaks... which I have had a high success rate with. And you can run it all seasons. Just my two cents worth.
I agree on all other accounts, but the Lubro-Moly cant be bought around here and from I know it is expensive.
I like and recommend the Rotella because it can be bought almost anywhere, its cheap and is a great oil.
Find what works for you and run with it.
Mudding
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
Hay spike when you change your 5/40 bring it up to temp drain it . And does it come out slower than it went in. Didn't think so . I think it is suppose to be 5/w but lube the same as 40/w. but it doesn't get thicker . Just sayin blamo.
Yes, you are correct, it gives the same protection as a "40" weight oil.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
re: diesel engine oil in a gasoline engine
The factory spec for the D2 V8 (NAS) is API SH or SJ. Rotella is that spec, plus a half a page more. The big plus of using a diesel formulated oil is that they have enhanced soot control, so they keep particles in suspension better so the oil filter (what ever size you like) can trap it. With a worn older Rover engine that is a good idea. The extra capacity of the filters places additional physical strain on the front cover..... but we don't have a rash of front-cover-broke-off posts. And the extra capacity is important for those who may have a gunked up engine as it increases the supply of oil. As gunk builds up, the drain pathways back to the oil sump become restricted, and eventually are so slow that oil starvation happens and the oil light fluctuates, along with very increased engine wear. I'll keep my jumbo filter, and I have run Rotella in a Kia van (242K), a D1 (183K), and two different Mercedes (163 K on my cabrio). The bigger plus is changing oil early and often, just like they vote in Chicago.
The factory spec for the D2 V8 (NAS) is API SH or SJ. Rotella is that spec, plus a half a page more. The big plus of using a diesel formulated oil is that they have enhanced soot control, so they keep particles in suspension better so the oil filter (what ever size you like) can trap it. With a worn older Rover engine that is a good idea. The extra capacity of the filters places additional physical strain on the front cover..... but we don't have a rash of front-cover-broke-off posts. And the extra capacity is important for those who may have a gunked up engine as it increases the supply of oil. As gunk builds up, the drain pathways back to the oil sump become restricted, and eventually are so slow that oil starvation happens and the oil light fluctuates, along with very increased engine wear. I'll keep my jumbo filter, and I have run Rotella in a Kia van (242K), a D1 (183K), and two different Mercedes (163 K on my cabrio). The bigger plus is changing oil early and often, just like they vote in Chicago.
Baja
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 5,736
Likes: 230
From: south n.j. and ne va.
since we are on oil where is the part of the manual for replacing the oil pump so I can bookmark it for future needs
btw the 10w/30 still keeps the light on for 10 seconds + on a stone cold engine it is in the low 20's here currently much better then the 15w-40 was not sure how much better the 5w would have been truck sat for 5 hours in the cold so it was good and cold, once the engine is warm the light is instant off
btw the 10w/30 still keeps the light on for 10 seconds + on a stone cold engine it is in the low 20's here currently much better then the 15w-40 was not sure how much better the 5w would have been truck sat for 5 hours in the cold so it was good and cold, once the engine is warm the light is instant off
Rock Crawling
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 421
Likes: 24
From: North of the Arkansas, South of the Platte
I had a 95 Honda Passport, really an Isuzu Rodeo, that got badly gunked up oil pathways and would tap. It was a well-known condition and there was a service bulletin about it. The service bulletin suggested using Mobil One 0w-20 or something like that for a couple of oil change cycles to see if it would clean up and lubricate properly. The alternative was $4,000 worth of work. We tried the Mobil One and it worked.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
TOM R
Here are pages from the over haul manual section of the RAVE for 4.0 and 4.6 engines.
As for gunked up, kerosene, BG Products, Marvel Mystery Oil, Sea Foam, and a host of other solvents also clean out gunk, some a little faster than others. But if we run a decent oil and don't go by the hogwash of the owner manual, written by the marketting department, we'd be better off. They base it on miles. As a competitor, they want higher miles than Brand X. So 7500 miles became a standard. But 7500 miles of highway driving is a lot different than 7500 miles in stop and go Mom's Taxi Service, with extended idle at school pickup, drive thru, bank, soccer practice, ballet lessons, horse back ridding lessons, etc. Here's a pix posted by one member, at about 50,000 miles, dealer oil change intervals. Like that nice Colonel Sanders Extra Crispy I believe.
I had an Isuzu I Mark (4 cyl) and moved up to a Trooper. I put 250K on the i-mark, changed oil at decent intervals while I travelled five states to support different branch offices. Only thing I did different was I would leave it idling when I went into a C store for a break and a soda, or to get gas. Didn't turn the engine off every time I stopped.
Here are pages from the over haul manual section of the RAVE for 4.0 and 4.6 engines.
As for gunked up, kerosene, BG Products, Marvel Mystery Oil, Sea Foam, and a host of other solvents also clean out gunk, some a little faster than others. But if we run a decent oil and don't go by the hogwash of the owner manual, written by the marketting department, we'd be better off. They base it on miles. As a competitor, they want higher miles than Brand X. So 7500 miles became a standard. But 7500 miles of highway driving is a lot different than 7500 miles in stop and go Mom's Taxi Service, with extended idle at school pickup, drive thru, bank, soccer practice, ballet lessons, horse back ridding lessons, etc. Here's a pix posted by one member, at about 50,000 miles, dealer oil change intervals. Like that nice Colonel Sanders Extra Crispy I believe.
I had an Isuzu I Mark (4 cyl) and moved up to a Trooper. I put 250K on the i-mark, changed oil at decent intervals while I travelled five states to support different branch offices. Only thing I did different was I would leave it idling when I went into a C store for a break and a soda, or to get gas. Didn't turn the engine off every time I stopped.
